
Southeast Europe
Bosnia and HerzegovinaTravel guide
- Sarajevo
- Banja Luka
- Bihać
- Jajce
- Mostar
- Neum
Bosnia and Herzegovina is a mostly mountainous country on Europe's Balkan Peninsula. It has restored historic towns, medieval monuments and a small stretch of Adriatic coastline.
Why go
Explore Sarajevo's Old Bazaar and its mix of cultures and historic buildings.
See Mostar's restored Stari Most bridge and old town.
Visit waterfalls at Kravice, Jajce and Una National Park.
Take the scenic train between Sarajevo and Mostar.
Enjoy rafting, hiking and winter sports.
Getting there
By air
- Sarajevo Airport is the main entry point by air.
- Mostar, Tuzla and Banja Luka also have international airports.
- Some travellers fly to Zagreb, Split, Zadar or Dubrovnik in Croatia, then continue by bus.
By land
- International buses connect Sarajevo with Croatia, Serbia, Slovenia and Montenegro. Longer routes also run from North Macedonia, Austria and Germany.
- Most international buses use Sarajevo's main bus station beside the railway station. Some buses from Belgrade, Montenegro and Republika Srpska use Lukavica station in eastern Sarajevo.
- Mostar, Banja Luka, Tuzla and Zenica also have international bus services.
By sea
- Neum has limited harbour facilities, including two shallow quays.
- The source describes ferry connections to Neum from other Adriatic cities. There is no direct international ferry from Italy.
Getting around
Bus
Buses are the main public transport option, with a dense network run by small private companies. A return ticket is only valid with the company that sold it, even when several companies serve the route. Some areas have few or no buses, especially across ethnic boundaries. Journeys can take much longer than map distances suggest. The Sarajevo–Banja Luka bus journey takes about five to six hours.
Train
Services are severely limited, and many former routes no longer run. There is no passenger train between Sarajevo and Banja Luka. Tuzla is also unreachable by train. The Sarajevo–Mostar route offers views of mountains, canyons and the Neretva River valley. Tickets bought at the station cost the same as online tickets, including a booking fee. Online tickets from the Federation railway operator go on sale seven days ahead. Taking a bicycle on a train may be difficult. Smoking is common on trains.
Car
A rental car can help you reach remote places outside Sarajevo. Drive on the right. Mountain roads, poor road surfaces and dangerous overtaking can make journeys slow. Roads in remote mountain areas can be dangerous. Default speed limits are 50 kilometres per hour in cities, 80 on rural roads, 100 on expressways and 130 on motorways. Petrol stations can be hard to find in some areas. The edges of towns and cities are often the best places to fill up. Make sure you are allowed to drive in the country. Police regularly stop drivers to check their papers. Travel between the country's two political areas is unrestricted, but roadside assistance services differ by area.
What to see and do
Sarajevo
Explore the Baščaršija Old Bazaar, Sarajevo cathedral and Gazi Husrev-beg's Mosque. The Tunnel of Hope museum tells the story of a wartime supply route.
Mostar and Stari Most
The restored old town surrounds a famous bridge recognised by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization as a World Heritage Site.
Mehmed Paša Sokolović Bridge
Višegrad's impressive historic bridge is also a World Heritage Site.
Kravice and Jajce waterfalls
Kravice is about 40 kilometres from Mostar. Jajce's waterfall drops 17 metres in the middle of town.
Una and Sutjeska national parks
Una has dramatic waterfalls. Sutjeska has a waterfall and an ancient forest.
Počitelj and Blagaj
Počitelj has a historic citadel, while Blagaj is home to the spring of the Buna River.
Food and drink
Bosnian coffee
Turkish-style coffee is locally called Bosnian or domaca coffee. It is widely available in bars, restaurants and fast-food places.
Local beer
Domestic beers include Nektar, Sarajevsko, Preminger and Tuzlansko.
Rakija
This alcoholic drink comes in many varieties and is made both commercially and at home.
Herzegovina wine
Wines from Herzegovina are known for their quality. Red wine is called crno vino, and white wine is bijelo vino.
Money
Convertible mark, also called marka; symbol KM and currency code BAM.
- The convertible mark is fixed at 1.95583 KM to one euro.
- Euro cash is widely accepted, mainly in notes of €20 or less.
- Cards are not widely accepted, so cash is useful.
- Small shops may struggle to change 100 KM or 200 KM notes.
Language
- Bosnian, Croatian and Serbian are official languages and are mutually understandable.
- Serbian uses both Cyrillic and Latin letters. Cyrillic signs are common in Republika Srpska.
- Younger people widely speak English, especially in cities.
- Some people speak German, and some older people understand Russian.
- Domaca coffee
- Homemade or Bosnian coffee.
- Crno vino
- Red wine.
- Bijelo vino
- White wine.
Staying safe
- Stay on dedicated paths because of land mines.
- Use a guide or ask a local about outdoor dangers. Rivers can be fierce, and mountain footing can be unstable.
- Violent crime is uncommon, but watch for pickpockets in Sarajevo's old centre, Mostar and Banja Luka.
- Stray dogs are more common around Mostar and farther south than in much of the country.
Local customs
Do
- Respect religious differences and people affected by the 1990s war.
- Be considerate in places where ethnic tensions remain.
- Respect the environment and take care around rivers, mountains and valleys.
Don't
- Avoid conversations about the war.
- Avoid arguments about sensitive political topics, including the status of Kosovo or Republika Srpska.
- Do not offend religious or ethnic groups.
Staying healthy
- Tap water is drinkable in most parts of the country. Some areas also have drinking fountains supplied by mountain springs.
- Food businesses undergo health and safety checks, and food handlers receive regular health checks.
- Expect smoky restaurants, bars, shops and other indoor places. Smoking is widespread, including on some public transport.
- Stay on dedicated paths to avoid land mines.
Phone and internet
- Prepaid mobile SIM cards are sold at kiosks for 10 KM or less.
- Networks include HT ERONET, GSMBiH and m:tel.
- Operators often sell tourist mobile-data packages lasting five to 30 days. One example in the source is 30 gigabytes for 30 days at 40 KM.
- Activation takes less than two minutes, with no identity document required.
Where to stay
- Accommodation includes hotels, hostels, motels and guesthouses.
- Neum has hotels rated from two to four stars. Other cities have many three- and four-star hotels, plus some five-star hotels.
- Sarajevo also has cheap hostels.
- Campsites are uncommon. Land mines are a concern when camping away from established sites.
Outdoor adventures in Bosnia and Herzegovina
Bosnia and Herzegovina has mountain hikes, river rafting, waterfalls and winter skiing. There are also forest walks, birdwatching, hot springs and beach snorkelling at Neum. Stay on dedicated paths because of land mines.
Neretva River rafting
Rafting
Rafting routes run on the Neretva River. Booking and access details are not specified.
Una National Park and Una Falls
HikeBosanska Krajinanear Bihać
One day or several daysCheck the park map at the tourist information centre in Bihać. There are six entrances; Gorjevac is the closest to Bihać. Ćukovi is another starting point for a waterfall hike.
- Permit: Entry tickets are sold at park entrances.
- Cost: Listed December 2017 entry prices: Štrbacki Buk 3 KM; Martin Brod 2 KM.
- Stay on dedicated paths because of land mines.
Tara and Drina rivers rafting
Raftingnear Foča
Foča is a named rafting centre on the Drina. Rafting is also described on the Tara, but booking and starting-point details are not specified.
Vrbas Canyon rafting
Raftingnear Banja Luka
Arrange rafting with Buk in Banja Luka or Kanjon Rafting Club in Karanovac.
- Cost: Buk is listed at 50 KM per person.
Short rafting courses on the Krivaja and Sana
Rafting
Short rafting courses are described on both rivers. Operators and starting points are not specified.
Neretva, Trebižat, Unac, Krivaja and Bioštica kayaking
Kayaking
These rivers are named kayaking destinations. Launch points, rentals and guided trips are not specified.
- The Krivaja has plenty of whitewater: fast, turbulent river sections.
Pliva River and Veliko and Malo lakes canoeing
Kayakingnear Jajce
The Pliva River and its Veliko and Malo lakes are canoeing destinations. Pliva Lake is about 5 km upstream from Jajce; rental and launch details are not specified.
Canyoning on the Rakitnica, Bjela, Unac, Svrakava and Cvrcka
More to do
These river canyons are described as canyoning destinations, where you travel through a river gorge. The Svrakava and Cvrcka canyons are near Banja Luka. Booking details are not specified.
- The Bjela route is described as extreme.
Bjelašnica, Jahorina, Igman, Vlašić, Blidinje, Vlasenica and Kupres skiing
Skiing
WinterBjelašnica, Jahorina and Igman are close to Sarajevo. Vlašić is close to Travnik. Other named resorts are Blidinje, Vlasenica in the east and Kupres in Western Bosnia.
- High mountain areas have long, severe winters.
- Some venues around Sarajevo are described as challenging.
Bjelašnica and Jahorina summer hikes
HikeSarajevo Regionnear Sarajevo
SummerBoth mountains are close to Sarajevo and are described as summer hiking destinations. Trailheads and transport details are not specified.
- Stay on dedicated paths because of land mines.
Jablanica mountain hikes
Hikenear Jablanica
One day to several daysUse Jablanica as your base. It is on the train route between Sarajevo and Mostar, with several hikes in the surrounding mountains.
- Stay on dedicated paths because of land mines.
Foča, Maglić and Sutjeska National Park hikes
Hikenear Foča
Use Foča as a gateway to hiking near the Montenegro border, including Maglić and nearby Sutjeska National Park.
- The Montenegro border is unclear in many places, especially within the national park.
- Stay on dedicated paths because of land mines.
Kozara National Park hiking
HikeNorthwestern Bosnia
Explore the park's forest and meadow hiking areas. Access routes and transport details are not specified.
- Stay on dedicated paths because of land mines.
Mountains around Uništa
Hikenear Knin
Hike in the mountains around Uništa near Knin. The village is not directly accessible from the Bosnian side.
- Stay on dedicated paths because of land mines.
Skakavac Waterfall
HikeSarajevo Regionnear Sarajevo
Day trip When weather permitsTake bus 69 from Sutjeska, near Sarajevo's train station, to Nahorevo. Continue on foot. Drivers can park where the paved road ends or 1–2 km farther along the dirt road.
- Plan the trip around the weather.
- Stay on dedicated paths because of land mines.
Trebević hilltop and bobsled-track walk
HikeSarajevo Regionnear Sarajevo
Take the cable car from Franjevačka to the former ski station. Follow forest paths towards the Pino Hotel and bobsled track. You can walk one way and use the cable car for the other.
- Cost: Cable car prices listed September 2024: 30 KM return or 20 KM one way; local residents pay less.
- Off-road cyclists ride down the bobsled track.
- Stay on dedicated paths because of land mines.
Dariva Canyon promenade
HikeSarajevo Regionnear Sarajevo
Follow the pedestrian promenade from Sarajevo's historic centre towards Goat's Bridge along the Miljacka canyon.
- Cost: Free.
Hutovo Blato Natural Park birdwatching
Wildlife
Visit Hutovo Blato Natural Park for birdwatching. Access and tour details are not specified.
Kravice Waterfalls
More to doHerzegovinanear Mostar
Visit the waterfalls about 40 km from Mostar. Transport and entry arrangements are not specified.
Srpske toplice hot springs and Banj Brdo path
Hot springnear Banja Luka
About one hour to walk from town to the springsWalk along the southern riverbank from Banja Luka to Srpske toplice. There is also a bus stop. A marked forest path climbs towards Banj Brdo from behind the springs.
- Cost: Hot spring pools are free.
Vrbas Dajak boat tour and Novoselija swimming
More to donear Banja Luka
Hot summer days for swimming, when the water is not too highBook a Dajak boat tour on the route Zeleni most–Prvi mlin–Kastel–Zeleni most. For swimming at Restoran Slap, follow the road south along the east bank of the Vrbas to Novoselija.
- Cost: Dajak prices listed April 2023: 20 KM for one person, 25 KM for two people or 30 KM for three people.
- The swimming spot is recommended only when the river is not too high.
Park Fortica ziplines and via ferrata
ClimbingHerzegovinanear Mostar
Visit Park Fortica for its ziplines and via ferrata, a climbing route fitted with fixed cables and other supports. Booking details are not specified.
Neum beaches, water sports and Obli Vrh hike
SnorkellingHerzegovinanear Neum
Bring your own mask and snorkel to any accessible beach. Hotels offer jet-skiing and stand-up paddleboarding. For the 3 km Obli Vrh hike, take the lane branching off M17.3 just beyond St Antony's church.
River fly-fishing tours
More to do
Use fishing centres such as Konjic, Glavatičevo, Foča, Goražde, Bihać, Bosanska Krupa, Martin Brod, Drvar, Ribnik, Ključ, Sanica, Sanski Most, Šipovo, Jajce, Livno, Blagaj or Tjentište. Some towns have accommodation geared towards anglers.
Vrelo Bosne spring picnic
More to doSarajevo Regionnear Sarajevo
Take a horse carriage to Vrelo Bosne, the spring of the Bosna River.
Airports, metros and trains in Bosnia and Herzegovina
Airports with scheduled flights
- BNXBanja Luka International AirportMahovljaniMain international airport
- OMOMostar International AirportMostarMain international airport
- SJJSarajevo International AirportSarajevoMain international airport
- TZLTuzla International AirportDubrave GornjeMain international airport
Trains
- Rail network
- 1,018 km
- Electrified
- 565 km
People and safety in Bosnia and Herzegovina
Religion
Most people are Muslim. Mixed.
- Muslim51%
- Christian46%
- No religion3%
LGBT+ travellers
Legal
- Same-sex marriage is not recognised.
- Legal gender change is recognised.
- Laws protect against discrimination.
Women travellers
Ranked #59 of 181 countries for women's safety, inclusion and justice.
62% of women say they feel safe walking alone at night where they live.
Who can visit without a visa
Travellers from 102 of 198 countries can visit Bosnia and Herzegovina easily: no visa, a visa at the airport, or a short online form.
- Visa not required101
- Visa on arrival1
- Visa required96
Who can visit easily, by part of the world
For each part of the world: how many countries' travellers can come easily. Easy means no visa, a visa at the airport, or a short online form.
- Europe43 of 45 countries
- Oceania11 of 14 countries
- Americas26 of 35 countries
- Asia19 of 50 countries
- Africa3 of 54 countries
Questions
What currency should I carry?
The local currency is the convertible mark, written KM. Cards are not widely accepted, and smaller notes are easier to use in small shops.
Can I travel around without a car?
Buses are the main public transport option. Some areas have very few services, and journeys can be longer than the distance suggests.
Can I buy a train ticket at the station?
Yes. The source says station and online tickets cost the same, including a booking fee.
Will people understand English?
English is widely spoken by younger people, especially in urban areas.
Can I drink the tap water?
Tap water is drinkable in most parts of the country.
Is it safe to walk in the countryside?
Stay on dedicated paths because of land mines. Use a guide or ask a local about natural dangers and mine risks.
What is the weather like?
Summers are hot and winters are cold. Higher areas have short, cool summers and long, severe winters, while the coast has mild, rainy winters.
What kinds of accommodation are available?
There are hotels, hostels, motels and guesthouses. Sarajevo has cheap hostels, but campsites are uncommon.
How can I get a local mobile connection?
Buy a prepaid SIM card at a kiosk for 10 KM or less. The source says activation takes less than two minutes and needs no identity document.
Are there topics I should avoid discussing?
Avoid the 1990s war and sensitive political disputes. Respect religious differences and the experiences of people affected by the war.
Reviewed by @snuck