
South-Eastern Asia
BruneiTravel guide
- Bandar Seri Begawan
- Bangar
- Kuala Belait
- Muara
- Seria
- Tutong
Brunei is a small, wealthy country on Borneo in Southeast Asia. It offers quiet mosques, rainforest trips and a relaxed atmosphere, with a religious and conservative society.
Why go
Visit the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque in Bandar Seri Begawan.
Explore the rainforest in Temburong.
See Kampong Ayer, the capital's water village.
Enjoy a quiet atmosphere with few crowds.
Best time to go: Consider visiting outside Ramadan. During this Islamic fasting month, restaurants stop daytime dine-in service, and eating or drinking in public can lead to heavy fines.
Getting there
By air
- Brunei International Airport is the country's main airport. Royal Brunei Airlines serves cities including London, Dubai, Singapore and Kuala Lumpur.
- Singapore Airlines flies from Singapore, and AirAsia flies from Kuala Lumpur. Singapore and Kuala Lumpur are also useful places to change planes.
- A taxi from the airport to central Bandar Seri Begawan takes about 20 minutes and costs around US$25.
By land
- You can drive from Sarawak, Malaysia, through Sungai Tujuh near Miri or Kuala Lurah near Limbang. Border queues can be very long, especially at weekends.
- Road crossings also connect Limbang and Lawas with Brunei's Temburong district.
- The source reports no direct Miri–Bandar Seri Begawan bus as of 2022. A private car or shuttle costs around B$60.
By sea
- Serasa Ferry Terminal at Muara is about 25 km from Bandar Seri Begawan.
- Ferries from Labuan take around two hours. Schedules can change at short notice.
Customs
- Non-Muslims may bring up to two litres of wine or spirits and up to 12 cans of beer every 48 hours for private consumption.
- Declare any alcohol when you arrive and pass through customs.
- Drug offences carry severe penalties, including a mandatory death sentence for some trafficking offences.
Getting around
Bus
Minibuses run from the central bus terminal in Bandar Seri Begawan. Route maps are available there, and buses have route numbers and different colours. The fare is B$1, usually paid to a conductor or sometimes the driver. Tell the driver where you want to get off. City buses generally run from about 06:00 to 18:00, with no strict timetable. Waiting 30–45 minutes is normal. Drivers sometimes skip sections of a route after asking passengers where they need to go. An infrequent longer-distance bus connects Bandar Seri Begawan with Seria through Tutong.
Car
Roads are generally well maintained, and most drivers follow traffic rules. The main coastal road connects Muara, Bandar Seri Begawan and Kuala Belait. The Sultan Haji Omar 'Ali Saifuddien Bridge connects Temburong with the rest of Brunei without passing through Malaysia. Watch for dangerous drivers, especially around midnight and early morning when illegal racing takes place.
Taxis and app-booked rides
Dart is the most common app for booking rides in Brunei. Taxis are available on both sides of the Limbang border crossing. Bargain over the fare.
Water taxi
Water taxis are available in the capital.
What to see and do
Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque
A mosque in Bandar Seri Begawan and one of the country's main sights.
Istana Nurul Iman
The Sultan's residence in Bandar Seri Begawan is the world's largest occupied residential palace.
Ulu Temburong National Park
A national park in Brunei's Temburong district.
Museums in Bandar Seri Begawan
Learn about Brunei's history and its monarchy.
Kampong Ayer
This water village shows a simpler side of life in a wealthy country.
Join a Temburong nature tour
Tours typically combine boat travel, a traditional longhouse visit and a river trip into the Belalong rainforest reserve.
Food and drink
Nasi katok
Rice with curried beef or chicken, often quite spicy. It is relatively inexpensive but has few vegetables and can be fatty.
Ambuyat
Brunei's national dish is a sticky sago paste dipped in savoury sauce using linked chopsticks called chandas. A few specialist restaurants serve it.
Malay and Chinese food
These are the most popular local cuisines and are similar to the food across the border in Malaysia.
Teh tarik
A sweet milk tea.
Kopi
Coffee, available in many varieties at restaurants.
Alcohol
Alcohol is not legally sold in Brunei, and drinking it in public is prohibited. Non-Muslims may bring limited amounts for private consumption and must declare them at customs.
Money
Brunei dollar, written B$ or $, with currency code BND.
- The Brunei dollar and Singapore dollar can be used at equal value in both countries.
- Many shops refuse Singapore banknotes with tears, stains or markings. Bring notes in good condition.
- Malaysian ringgit may be accepted, but at a poor exchange rate.
- The word ringgit can also mean Brunei dollars locally. Check which currency someone means.
Typical costs
- City bus fare: B$1.
- Airport taxi to central Bandar Seri Begawan: around US$25.
- Private car or shuttle from Miri to Brunei: around B$60.
- Overall costs are roughly similar to Singapore and about twice those in neighbouring Malaysia.
Language
- Malay is the official language. The local dialect can be difficult for new learners.
- English is widely spoken in urban areas, but less widely in rural areas.
- Chinese communities speak languages including Hokkien, Teochew and Mandarin.
- Tourist signs are in English and often Chinese. Most other signs use the Roman alphabet, although Malay also uses an Arabic-based script called Jawi.
Staying safe
- Crime rates are low, but Brunei has strict laws and severe punishments. These laws also apply to foreigners.
- Drug offences can lead to long imprisonment or death sentences. The source reports an informal pause in executions.
- Same-sex relationships, adultery and sex outside marriage are illegal and can carry severe penalties.
- Criticising Islam or insulting the Prophet Muhammad can carry severe penalties.
Local customs
Do
- Remove your shoes when expected at places such as hostels, museums and mosques.
- Listen respectfully if local people discuss religion or royalty.
- Approach subjects involving race, religion and heritage carefully.
Don't
- Do not criticise or make fun of the royal family. This is a crime that can lead to imprisonment.
- Avoid sharing strong views on politics and world events, especially those involving Islam or Islamic countries.
- Avoid very revealing swimwear. Non-Muslim women are not legally required to wear a headscarf.
- Do not eat or drink in public during daylight hours in Ramadan, even if you are not Muslim.
Staying healthy
- Drink bottled water or water that has been boiled.
- Protect yourself from mosquito bites. Dengue fever is a risk, while malaria risk is low.
- Eating out is generally safe because food safety standards are good.
- Hospitals can handle most routine procedures, but complex surgery may require an air transfer to Singapore. Make sure your insurance covers this.
Where to stay
- Budget accommodation is available in Brunei.
- Some reasonably priced guesthouses and hostels can be found.
- Bandar Seri Begawan has accommodation listings.
Outdoor adventures in Brunei
Brunei offers rainforest walks, boat trips to look for wildlife, and diving around coral reefs and shipwrecks. Highlights include Ulu Temburong National Park, proboscis monkeys near the capital, and Seri Kenangan Beach in Tutong.
Ulu Temburong National Park and Canopy Walkway
HikeTemburongnear Bangar
Book a guided tour in advance. Tours generally leave from Bandar Seri Begawan. The park has no roads, so the final approach is by longboat.
- Visitors may enter only with a guided tour.
- The canopy walkway stands 50 metres above the ground.
Proboscis monkey river trip
WildlifeBrunei and Muaranear Bandar Seri Begawan
Leave around 17:00 for the best chance of seeing proboscis monkeys.Go to a waterfront jetty near the capital and take a boat along the rivers through the swampy jungle. The driver also helps look for monkeys.
American Wreck — USS Salute
Scuba divingBrunei Bay
Arrange a dive trip with one of the organisations offering diving in Brunei.
- The wreck lies at a depth of 30 metres.
- Underwater visibility can change during the monsoon season.
Australian Wreck
Scuba diving
Arrange a dive trip with an organisation offering diving in Brunei.
- The wreck lies in 33 metres of water.
- Underwater visibility can change during the monsoon season.
Tasek Lama Recreational Park
HikeBrunei and Muaranear Bandar Seri Begawan
Visit the park on Jalan Tasek Lama, close to the city, and explore its walking trails.
- Cost: Free entry.
Pantai Seri Kenangan
BeacheTutongnear Tutong
Visit Seri Kenangan Beach in Tutong District. It sits on a narrow strip of land beside the winding Tutong River as it reaches the South China Sea.
Belalong reserve rainforest eco-tour
More to doTemburong
Join an eco-tour that travels by boat to Temburong, typically visits a traditional longhouse, then continues upriver by powered boat to the Belalong reserve.
Dolphin 88 Wreck
Scuba diving
Arrange a dive trip with an organisation offering diving in Brunei.
- Exploring inside the wreck is described as an activity for experienced divers.
- Underwater visibility can change during the monsoon season.
Oil Rig Wreck
Scuba diving
Arrange a dive trip with an organisation offering diving in Brunei.
- Underwater visibility can change during the monsoon season.
Baiei Maru Wreck
Scuba divingBrunei Bay
Arrange a dive trip with an organisation offering diving in Brunei.
- The wreck sits in about 50 metres of water.
- Underwater visibility can change during the monsoon season.
Labuan Wreck
Scuba diving
Arrange a dive trip with an organisation offering diving in Brunei.
- Underwater visibility can change during the monsoon season.
Bolkiah Wreck
Scuba diving
Arrange a dive trip with an organisation offering diving in Brunei.
- Underwater visibility can change during the monsoon season.
UBD Wreck
Scuba diving
Arrange a dive trip with an organisation offering diving in Brunei.
- Underwater visibility can change during the monsoon season.
Amai Wreck
Scuba diving
Arrange a dive trip with an organisation offering diving in Brunei.
- Underwater visibility can change during the monsoon season.
Arun Wreck
Scuba diving
Arrange a dive trip with an organisation offering diving in Brunei.
- Underwater visibility can change during the monsoon season.
Stone Wreck
Scuba diving
Arrange a dive trip with an organisation offering diving in Brunei.
- Underwater visibility can change during the monsoon season.
Kianggeh Canal wildlife watching
WildlifeBrunei and Muaranear Bandar Seri Begawan
Visit the small canal near Kianggeh Market and look for wildlife in and around the water.
Airports, metros and trains in Brunei
Airports with scheduled flights
- BWNBrunei International AirportBandar Seri BegawanMain international airport
Trains
- Rail network
- 13 km
People and safety in Brunei
Religion
Most people are Muslim. Mixed.
- Muslim75%
- Christian9%
- Buddhist9%
- Folk religions6%
- Hindu<1%
LGBT+ travellers
Illegal, with the death penalty in law
- The law allows death penalty.
Check your own government's travel advice before you go, and be careful with public displays of affection and dating apps.
Who can visit without a visa
Travellers from 64 of 198 countries can visit Brunei easily: no visa, a visa at the airport, or a short online form.
- Visa not required59
- Visa on arrival5
- Visa required133
- Admission refused1
Who can visit easily, by part of the world
For each part of the world: how many countries' travellers can come easily. Easy means no visa, a visa at the airport, or a short online form.
- Europe35 of 46 countries
- Asia23 of 49 countries
- Oceania2 of 14 countries
- Americas4 of 35 countries
- Africa0 of 54 countries
Questions
Can I get by with English?
English is widely spoken in urban areas, and tourist sights have English signs. Some Malay is useful in rural areas.
Can I use Singapore dollars?
Yes. Singapore dollars are accepted at the same value as Brunei dollars, but many shops refuse damaged or marked notes.
How do I get from the airport to the capital?
A taxi takes about 20 minutes and costs around US$25. The source also lists a B$1 bus running every half hour from 06:00 to 20:00.
Are city buses easy to use?
The capital has numbered routes, maps at the central terminal and a B$1 fare. There is no strict timetable, and waits of 30–45 minutes are normal.
What local food should I try?
Try nasi katok, rice with curried meat, or ambuyat, a sticky sago paste eaten with savoury sauce.
Can I buy alcohol in Brunei?
Alcohol is not legally sold in Brunei. Non-Muslims may bring limited amounts for private consumption, declare them at customs and avoid drinking in public.
Can I drink tap water?
Drink bottled water or water that has been boiled.
What changes during Ramadan?
Restaurants stop daytime dine-in service, and working hours are reduced. Eating or drinking in public during daylight hours can lead to heavy fines.
Do non-Muslim women need to wear a headscarf?
No. Non-Muslim women are not legally required to wear one, and sleeveless shirts and shorts are generally accepted.
Are there affordable places to stay?
Yes. Budget accommodation, including some reasonably priced guesthouses and hostels, is available.
Reviewed by @snuck