Skip to content

Western Asia

IraqTravel guide

Explore Iraq visa rulesCommon scams in Iraq

Iraq has ancient cities, important religious sites and a strong tradition of hospitality. Security remains unstable, with risks of terrorism, armed conflict, kidnapping and violent crime. Many governments advise travelling only if absolutely necessary.

Why go

  1. Explore the history of ancient Mesopotamia at Babylon, Ur and other ruined cities.

  2. Learn about Iraq's religious heritage in Najaf, Karbala and Baghdad.

  3. Try grilled fish, slow-cooked stews, fresh bread and sweet tea.

  4. Experience Iraqi hospitality, which often includes offers of food and gifts.

Getting there

By air

  • International airports are in Baghdad, Basra, Erbil, Sulaymaniyah and Najaf.
  • Connecting journeys usually need separate tickets. A delayed flight may mean missing your next flight and waiting many hours for a replacement.
  • Iraqi Airways operates domestic and international flights. FlyBaghdad also serves local and regional routes.

By land

  • There are no regular international passenger trains into Iraq. One possible route to Basra is a train to Khorramshahr in Iran, followed by a taxi.
  • Buses connect Iraq with neighbouring countries, especially Iran. You may need to find departure times and arrange tickets in person or by phone.
  • Some buses from Turkey to Iraqi Kurdistan can be booked online through services such as MetaBilet.

Getting around

  • Shared taxis

    Shared taxis leave Dohuk throughout the day for Erbil and other cities. They may also be the only way to travel in some areas outside Iraqi Kurdistan. Foreign visitors should expect frequent checkpoint stops. Drivers may ask for more than the agreed fare because of these delays. Travelling between Iraqi Kurdistan and the rest of Iraq involves border inspections similar to international travel.

  • Buses

    Public transport is limited in Iraqi Kurdistan. Regular buses connect Zakho and Dohuk. Shared taxis provide links where bus services are limited.

  • Trains

    Overnight trains connect Baghdad and Basra. The slower service takes up to 12 hours, while the express takes 6–7 hours. Daily trains connect Baghdad and Fallujah. Services to Karbala are irregular, with more during religious festivals. Buy tickets at railway stations. All trains are run by Iraqi Republic Railways. Passengers go through extensive security checks before boarding. Train travel is considered relatively safe.

  • Cars

    Vehicles drive on the right. At military stops, keep your lights on, switch on your hazard lights, slow down or pull over, and follow instructions. Obey stop signs, green lasers and other signals directed towards you. Be extremely cautious about accepting rides from people you meet during your trip.

What to see and do

  • Babylon

    This ancient Babylonian capital is one of Iraq's major historic sites. Rebuilding and later neglect have damaged parts of it.

  • Ur

    This ancient city is linked to Sumer, one of the world's earliest great civilisations.

  • Hatra and Ctesiphon

    These were important Parthian cities, with Ctesiphon serving as a capital.

  • Ashur

    This ancient city was an Assyrian capital.

  • Imam Ali Mosque, Najaf

    The mosque contains Ali ibn Abi Talib's tomb and is one of Shia Islam's most holy sites.

  • Al Abbas Mosque and Imam Husayn Shrine, Karbala

    These are major Shia pilgrimage sites. The Imam Husayn Shrine stands over Husayn ibn Ali's grave.

Food and drink

  • Masgouf

    Iraq's national dish is carp roasted over a wood fire after marinating. Restaurants along Baghdad's Tigris river, especially on Abu Nawas Street, serve it.

  • Tepsi Baytinijan

    A baked dish usually made with meatballs, aubergine, tomatoes, garlic, onions and potatoes.

  • Quzi

    Slow-roasted lamb served over rice with almonds and raisins. It is common at celebrations and large family gatherings.

  • Kubba

    Bulgur wheat shells filled with spiced minced meat, then fried or boiled. Styles vary between regions.

  • Tashreeb

    A stew poured over torn flatbread so the bread absorbs the broth. Chicken and okra versions are common.

  • Samoon

    Diamond-shaped bread baked in wood-fired ovens. It is served with most meals.

Money

Iraqi dinar (IQD)

  • Carry mostly small dinar notes for daily spending. People may be unwilling to give change for large notes.
  • Euros and US dollars are accepted in many places, but some shops do not accept dollars.
  • Bring clean, undamaged banknotes. Old, torn, stamped or creased notes may raise suspicion.
  • Large hotel bills are often paid in US dollars or euros. Conversion rates vary by day and town.

Tipping: Shared taxi drivers may expect a tip or extra payment because of checkpoint delays.

Typical costs

  • The bus between Zakho and Dohuk costs about US$2.
  • A single hotel room with a bathroom in Iraqi Kurdistan costs about US$15–25 per night.
  • A single room with a private bathroom in Baghdad starts at around US$50 in winter and US$70 in summer.
  • A single room at Baghdad's Babylon Rotana hotel costs about US$240–280 per night, depending on the season.

Language

  • Arabic and Kurdish are the official languages.
  • Iraqi Arabic is used in everyday conversation. Modern Standard Arabic is understood by many Iraqis.
  • Kurdish is the main language in Iraqi Kurdistan, where little Arabic may be spoken.
  • Kurmanji is mainly used in Duhok, while Sorani is more widespread elsewhere in Iraqi Kurdistan. Speakers of one may not understand the other.
  • English is commonly spoken, but using it can identify you as a foreign visitor and attract unwanted attention.

Staying safe

  • Security remains unstable, and many governments advise travelling only if absolutely necessary.
  • Threats include terrorism, armed conflict, kidnapping and violent crime. The Islamic State group continues a low-level insurgency in rural areas.
  • Iraqi Kurdistan is safer for foreign visitors, but violence can occur anywhere in Iraq.
  • Strongly consider hiring a local guide.
2 common scams in Iraq, and how to avoid them

Local customs

Do

  • Learn a few words of Iraqi Arabic or Kurdish. Attempts to speak the local language are warmly received.
  • Treat offers of food and tea with courtesy. Refusing food is considered impolite.
  • Allow for shorter working hours and daytime restaurant closures during Ramadan, the Muslim month of fasting.

Don't

  • Do not eat or drink in public during daylight hours in Ramadan, even if you are not Muslim.
  • Do not assume unmarried couples can share a hotel room. Check the hotel's policy before booking.

Staying healthy

  • Do not drink tap water anywhere in Iraq. Bottled water is the better choice for short visits.
  • Locally bottled water may still cause problems for people with sensitive stomachs.
  • Avoid street drinks made with water, including water flavoured with lemon.
  • If unsure about tea, ask for bottled water to be used. Boiling does not remove every health risk from water.

Where to stay

  • Hotels are plentiful in Zakho, Dohuk and Erbil. People on the street can direct you to nearby accommodation.
  • Baghdad has basic rooms and more luxurious hotels, including Babylon Rotana.
  • Summer heat can make sleep difficult without air conditioning.
  • Unmarried couples should check room-sharing rules before booking. Some hotels may ask for proof of marriage.

Outdoor adventures in Iraq

Iraq offers canoe trips through the Mesopotamian Marshes, scenic walks near Dohuk and river cruises from Basra. Iraqi Kurdistan has mountain scenery and is safer for foreign visitors, but violence can occur anywhere in Iraq. Rural areas still face an insurgency, and many governments advise against travel unless absolutely necessary.

  • Mesopotamian Marshes canoe trip

    More to doSouthern Iraq, Thi Qar Provincenear Chibayish

    November–April, when water levels are highest

    Reach Chibayish from Nasiriyah. Explore the waterways in a traditional mashoof canoe.

    • Summer temperatures regularly exceed 45°C.
    • A low-level insurgency continues in rural Iraq.

  • Dohuk Valley and Dam walk

    HikeIraqi Kurdistannear Dohuk

    Walk north out of Dohuk. The route goes uphill past a Kurdistan flag to the dam.

    • Cost: Free
    • Iraqi Kurdistan is safer for foreign visitors, but sporadic violence can still occur.

  • Shatt al-Arab river cruise

    More to doSouthern Iraqnear Basra

    Short cruise

    Take a boat offering a short cruise along the Shatt al-Arab in Basra.

  • Halamata Cave visit

    More to doIraqi Kurdistannear Dohuk

Airports, metros and trains in Iraq

Airports with scheduled flights

  • NJFAl Najaf International AirportNajafMain international airport
  • BGWBaghdad International Airport / New Al Muthana Air BaseBaghdadMain international airport
  • BSRBasra International AirportBasraMain international airport
  • EBLErbil International AirportArbilMain international airport
  • KIKKirkuk International AirportKirkukMain international airport

Trains

Rail network
2,032 km

People and safety in Iraq

Religion

Most people are Muslim. Mostly one faith.

  • Muslim99%
  • Christian<1%

LGBT+ travellers

Same-sex relationships are illegal

  • The law allows up to 15 years in prison.
  • Legal gender change is not recognised.

Check your own government's travel advice before you go, and be careful with public displays of affection and dating apps.

Women travellers

Ranked #158 of 181 countries for women's safety, inclusion and justice.

67% of women say they feel safe walking alone at night where they live.

Who can visit without a visa

Travellers from 8 of 198 countries can visit Iraq easily: no visa, a visa at the airport, or a short online form.

  • Visa not required4
  • Visa on arrival4
  • eVisa177
  • Visa required11
  • Admission refused2

Who can visit easily, by part of the world

For each part of the world: how many countries' travellers can come easily. Easy means no visa, a visa at the airport, or a short online form.

  • Asia6 of 49 countries
  • Europe2 of 46 countries
  • Africa0 of 54 countries
  • Americas0 of 35 countries
  • Oceania0 of 14 countries

Questions

Is Iraq safe for a first visit?

Security remains unstable, with risks including terrorism, kidnapping and armed conflict. Iraqi Kurdistan is safer for foreigners, but violence can occur anywhere; strongly consider a local guide.

How hot does Iraq get?

Summer temperatures average above 40°C in much of the country and frequently exceed 48°C. Winter nights can sometimes fall below freezing.

Can I use US dollars?

US dollars and euros are accepted in many places, especially for large hotel bills. Carry small Iraqi dinar notes for everyday spending because some shops refuse dollars.

Can I buy train tickets without booking online?

Yes. Train tickets can only be bought at railway stations.

Will I manage with English?

English is commonly spoken. Arabic and Kurdish are the official languages, and learning a few local words is appreciated.

Can I drink the tap water?

No. Use bottled water, avoid street drinks made with water, and be cautious with uncooked food.

What local food should I expect?

Meals often include grilled meat, stews, rice and fresh bread. Well-known dishes include masgouf, a roasted carp dish, and quzi, lamb served over rice.

How can I find a hotel without booking online?

In Iraqi Kurdistan, people on the street can direct you to nearby hotels. There are plenty of hotels in Zakho, Dohuk and Erbil.

What changes during Ramadan?

Most restaurants close until dusk and working hours are shorter. Visitors who are not Muslim should still avoid eating or drinking in public during daylight hours.

Can I buy alcohol?

The sale and import of alcohol are prohibited.

Reviewed by