
Melanesia
Papua New GuineaTravel guide
- Port Moresby
- Alotau
- Goroka
- Lae
- Madang
- Mount Hagen
Papua New Guinea covers the eastern part of New Guinea and many smaller islands. Its capital is Port Moresby. Travel can be difficult because roads are limited and many places can only be reached by air.
Why go
Mountain scenery on flights between the coast and the highlands.
Coral reefs in clear water.
Village stays and local handicrafts.
Volcano treks, with local safety advice.
Best time to go: June to September are the best months for trekking. The very wet season runs from about December to March. The highlands are cooler than the coast.
Getting there
By air
- Jacksons International Airport in Port Moresby is the country's international airport. Its airport code is POM.
- Air Niugini serves destinations in Australia, Asia and the Pacific.
- Qantas serves Brisbane and Sydney, while PNG Air serves Cairns.
By land
- The only land border is with Papua, Indonesia. Prepare for the crossing and have a backup plan.
- Border officers may be absent, which means you cannot cross legally. Aim to arrive by 9 AM for the best chance of finding them at their posts.
- Crossing options depend on your Indonesian visa. Some travellers must go by boat or complete exit formalities in Jayapura before travelling to the border.
By sea
- There are no international ferries.
- Cruise ships occasionally stop at Port Moresby.
Getting around
Domestic flights
Flying is the most common way to travel between major towns. For many places, it is the only practical option. Air Niugini links Port Moresby with most provincial capitals, with some services from Lae. PNG Air serves many smaller towns and larger islands using propeller aircraft. Remote trips may involve small aircraft. Mountainous terrain and cloud can make these flights risky.
Road travel
There are few paved roads, and most highways do not connect with each other. The Highlands Highway links Lae with Goroka and Mount Hagen, with branches towards other highland areas and Madang. Port Moresby has no major road links to other parts of the country. Traffic drives on the left. The maximum speed limit is 70 kilometres per hour.
Boats and ferries
Local island travel often uses banana boats, which are fibreglass boats with outboard motors. Some shipping companies carry passengers between cities, usually only two or three times a week. Upper-class ferry tickets include a bunk. Lower-class tickets provide a hard seat. The source lists a ferry between Madang and Wewak twice a week, and a weekly ship from Lae stopping at Finschhafen and Umboi Island. Open decks can get cold at night. Take warm clothes or buy a cabin ticket.
What to see and do
Highland scenery
Flights from the coast into the highlands offer striking mountain views.
Coral reefs
The country has coral reefs in clear water.
Tavurvur volcano
This volcano is very close to Rabaul in East New Britain.
Go trekking
June to September are the best trekking months. Some popular walks approach or climb active volcanoes, so follow local advice.
Visit the Port Moresby craft market
A monthly market opposite Ela Beach, in the IEA TAFE College car park, sells handicrafts from across the country.
Stay in a village guesthouse
These are the least expensive accommodation option listed in the source.
Food and drink
Mumu
Meat and vegetables cooked in an underground oven. Sweet potatoes, called kaukau, are often included.
Rice and starchy foods
Most meals include rice and another starchy food. Food generally uses few spices.
Tourist lodge meals
Lodges usually offer a mix of local food and Western-style dishes.
Chain restaurants
Options listed include Big Rooster for chicken, Eagle Pizzeria for pizza and Hog's Breath Cafe for steak.
Bottled water
Water quality varies by place and sometimes by day. Bottled water is generally the best choice, even in expensive hotels.
South Pacific Lager
This is the main local beer, often called SP Lager.
Money
Papua New Guinea kina, written as K or PGK. One kina equals 100 toea.
- Cash machines are common in main towns, but fees and foreign-card acceptance vary.
- Daily cash withdrawal limits are often 2,000 kina, though some machines or banks allow less.
- There are cash machines in the international airport arrivals area after customs. Some international cards may not work there.
- Larger shops, hotels and restaurants commonly accept credit cards. Occasional card fraud is reported.
Typical costs
- Hotels: at least US$100 a night, often much more.
- Town guesthouses: about US$40 a night.
- Village guesthouses: about US$15 a night.
Language
- More than 800 languages are spoken in the country.
- Tok Pisin is spoken across much of the country. It developed from English but has its own grammar.
- Hiri Motu is spoken in Port Moresby and other parts of Papua.
- English appears widely on signs, often alongside Tok Pisin. Try English first when speaking to someone.
- Yu dring; yu draiv; yu dai
- You drink; you drive; you die.
Staying safe
- Keep up with the security situation in every place you plan to visit. The source identifies crime, civil unrest, piracy and kidnapping as risks.
- Criminal gangs operate in major cities, especially Port Moresby and Lae. Avoid going out after dark.
- Ask your hotel about city visits. Staff may be able to walk with you or arrange a drive.
- A United States travel advisory dated 17 January 2024 warned against travel to central Bougainville near Panguna mine and most of the Highlands outside Mount Hagen and Goroka.
Local customs
Do
- Greet people with a friendly handshake.
- Try English first when approaching someone. Starting in another language may suggest you assume they do not know English.
- Ask permission before photographing people.
- Speak quietly and be aware that avoiding eye contact can show respect.
Don't
- Do not assume that someone looking down is being unfriendly.
- Do not bargain too hard, as this can cause offence.
- Do not buy bird feathers.
- Do not treat people in traditional clothing as tourist attractions.
Laws to know
- A little bargaining may be accepted, but too much can cause offence.
Staying healthy
- Tap water can be unsafe. Bottled water is generally the best choice, even in expensive hotels.
- Take precautions against mosquitoes and the diseases they carry. Malaria is a risk, and malaria medicine is sold in pharmacies.
- The source advises a polio booster if you have not received one in the last ten years, following World Health Organization advice about polio detected in the country.
Phone and internet
- The two mobile operators listed are Digicel PNG and bmobile-Vodafone.
- Fourth-generation mobile data coverage is available in Port Moresby and Lae.
- Most populated places have older third- or second-generation mobile coverage.
Where to stay
- Hotels cost at least US$100 a night and often much more.
- Town guesthouses cost about US$40 a night and are the main budget option in towns.
- Village guesthouses cost about US$15 a night.
- Port Moresby has international hotels, mid-range hotels and guesthouses. Options elsewhere depend on the town and province.
Outdoor adventures in Papua New Guinea
Papua New Guinea offers mountain treks, tropical reef diving and island sailing. The Kokoda Track is its best-known trek, while wildlife parks and village stays offer chances to see native birds. June to September is best for trekking; the very wet season runs from about December to March.
Kokoda Track
TrekOwen Stanley Range
June to SeptemberJoin an organised trek along the 96 km trail.
Mount Wilhelm summit
TrekHighlandsnear Kundiawa
June to SeptemberTake a guided summit trek from Kundiawa, about 2½ hours east of Mount Hagen.
- The summit is 4,509 m above sea level.
- Keep up to date with local security conditions before travelling in the Highlands.
Port Moresby reefs and wrecks
Scuba divingSouthern Papua New Guineanear Port Moresby
Arrange diving from a day boat or through the dive shop on nearby Loloata Island.
Madang diving
Scuba divingMadang-Morobenear Madang
Use a local scuba operator to explore waters near Madang. The Madang Visitor and Cultural Bureau can provide local information.
Tufi diving
Scuba diving
Dive at Tufi through a local scuba operator; specific access arrangements are not given.
Louisiade Archipelago diving
Scuba divingMilne Bay
Arrange diving in the archipelago with a scuba operator; specific transport details are not given.
Louisiade Archipelago yachting
SailingMilne Bay
Explore the island group by yacht. Charter operators and departure points are not specified.
Mount Giluwe summit
TrekHighlandsnear Mount Hagen
June to SeptemberTake a guided tour to the mountain.
- The summit is 4,368 m above sea level.
- Keep up to date with local security conditions before travelling in the Highlands.
Toi Wara waterfall
HikeSouthern Highlands Provincenear Mount Hagen
Hard About four hours to reach the area from Mount Hagen; walking time is not given. June to SeptemberDrive towards Poroma and ask locals for directions. Local villagers can help with the steep descent into the gorge and the return climb.
- The nearly vertical trail can be muddy and slippery.
- There is a strong current at the waterfall.
Mount Kabangama
ClimbingKubor Range, Highlandsnear Mount Hagen
The mountain is southeast of Mount Hagen. Routes and guide arrangements are not specified.
- Keep up to date with local security conditions before travelling in the Highlands.
Mount Hagen
ClimbingHighlandsnear Mount Hagen
The mountain is in the Mount Hagen area. Routes and guide arrangements are not specified.
- Keep up to date with local security conditions before travelling in the Highlands.
The Sugarloaf
ClimbingHighlandsnear Mount Hagen
The mountain is in the Mount Hagen area. Routes and guide arrangements are not specified.
- Keep up to date with local security conditions before travelling in the Highlands.
Port Moresby Nature Park
WildlifeSouthern Papua New Guineanear Port Moresby
Visit the nature park in Port Moresby. Ask your accommodation provider about local transport.
Moitaka Wildlife Sanctuary
WildlifeSouthern Papua New Guineanear Port Moresby
Visit the sanctuary on Sir Hubert Murray Highway.
The Rainforest Habitat
WildlifeMadang-Morobenear Lae
Visit the habitat at the Lae University of Technology.
Lae Botanic Gardens birdwatching
WildlifeMadang-Morobenear Lae
Visit the gardens in central Lae.
Hobe Village birdwatching stay
WildlifeMadang-Morobenear Madang
Contact the Madang Visitor and Cultural Bureau about a village stay. Hobe is about 30 minutes from Madang by minibus.
- Cost: 25 kina per night for the village stay.
Haya Village birdwatching stay
WildlifeMadang-Morobenear Madang
Contact the Madang Visitor and Cultural Bureau to find out about staying in Haya Village.
- Cost: 25 kina per night for the village stay.
Atama Beach hiking
HikeSouthern Papua New Guineanear Port Moresby
Go to Atama Beach at Pari, on Taurama Road.
- Cost: Free.
Alotau diving
Scuba divingMilne Baynear Alotau
Check diving arrangements before travelling: the town's only dive shop is reported to have closed.
Alotau island boat trips
More to doMilne Baynear Alotau
Take a dinghy from Alotau to see nearby islands.
Lae game fishing
More to doMadang-Morobenear Lae
Arrange a fishing boat charter through Lae Yacht Club.
Taurama Aquatic and Indoor Centre swimming
More to doSouthern Papua New Guineanear Port Moresby
Visit the sports complex in Port Moresby to use its outdoor pools.
Port Moresby Golf Club
More to doSouthern Papua New Guineanear Port Moresby
Visit the golf club across from the government buildings.
- Crocodiles live in the course's water holes.
New Ireland and Manus surfing
SurfingNew Ireland and Manus
Seek surfing information through the Surfing Association. Specific breaks and transport arrangements are not given.
Airports, metros and trains in Papua New Guinea
Airports with scheduled flights
- LAENadzab Tomodachi International AirportLaeMain international airport
- POMPort Moresby Jacksons International AirportPort MoresbyMain international airport
People and safety in Papua New Guinea
Religion
Most people are Christian. Mostly one faith.
- Christian99%
LGBT+ travellers
Same-sex relationships are illegal
- The law allows up to 14 years in prison.
- Some laws protect against discrimination.
Check your own government's travel advice before you go, and be careful with public displays of affection and dating apps.
Women travellers
Ranked #160 of 181 countries for women's safety, inclusion and justice.
65% of women say they feel safe walking alone at night where they live.
Who can visit without a visa
Travellers from 56 of 198 countries can visit Papua New Guinea easily: no visa, a visa at the airport, or a short online form.
- Visa on arrival55
- eTA required1
- eVisa134
- Visa required8
Who can visit easily, by part of the world
For each part of the world: how many countries' travellers can come easily. Easy means no visa, a visa at the airport, or a short online form.
- Oceania12 of 13 countries
- Americas15 of 35 countries
- Europe17 of 46 countries
- Asia6 of 50 countries
- Africa6 of 54 countries
Questions
When is the best time to go trekking?
June to September are the best months. The very wet season runs from about December to March.
Can I drive from Port Moresby to other major towns?
There are no major roads linking Port Moresby to other parts of the country. Flying is the usual way to travel between major towns.
Can I rely on my foreign bank card?
Many cash machines accept foreign cards, but some cards do not work and withdrawal limits vary. Larger shops, hotels and restaurants commonly accept credit cards.
What is the cheapest accommodation?
Village guesthouses are the least expensive option listed, at about US$15 a night. Town guesthouses cost about US$40 a night.
Can I drink tap water?
Tap water can be unsafe, and water quality varies. Bottled water is generally the best choice, even in expensive hotels.
Will I be able to use English?
Try English first when speaking to people. Signs commonly include English, while Tok Pisin is spoken across much of the country.
Is it safe to swim in rivers or the sea?
Saltwater crocodiles live in coastal waters, rivers and lakes. The source advises avoiding swimming except at higher elevations and in hotel pools.
What food should I expect?
Meals often include rice and another starchy food, with few spices. Mumu is meat and vegetables cooked in an underground oven.
Will my phone have mobile data coverage?
Port Moresby and Lae have fourth-generation mobile coverage. Most populated places have older third- or second-generation coverage.
Can I photograph local people?
Ask for their permission first, including when they are wearing traditional clothing or makeup.
Reviewed by @snuck