
Western Africa
Sierra LeoneTravel guide
- Freetown
- Bo
- Bonthe
- Kenema
- Koidu
- Makeni
Sierra Leone is on the west coast of Africa. It has beaches, rainforests, rich history and welcoming people, but travel and accommodation can be expensive and facilities are limited.
Why go
Quiet beaches around the Freetown Peninsula.
Rare wildlife on Tiwai Island and varied wildlife in Outamba-Kilimi National Park.
Historic churches and local culture in Bonthe Town.
Island trips, snorkelling and scuba diving around Banana Island.
Mountain views from Mount Bintumani and large areas of rainforest.
Best time to go: October to March is generally dry, hot and sunny. The rainy season runs from April to September, with the heaviest rain in July and August.
Getting there
By air
- The international airport is at Lungi, across the estuary from Freetown. Its new terminal opened in 2023.
- An airport security fee of US$25 is charged on arrival and departure. Pay online through Securipass or in cash at a bank desk in the arrivals hall.
- Sea Coach Express runs water taxis to Aberdeen Bridge, and Sea Bird Express goes to Murray Town. Both charge around US$50 for one adult journey; tickets can usually be booked online.
By land
- Road routes connect Sierra Leone with Guinea and Liberia. Private taxis, buses and trucks travel daily between Conakry and Freetown.
- Private vehicles need special border permits. The source lists a vehicle pass from the Guinea Embassy and a vehicle clearance permit from the Sierra Leone Embassy, each costing US$40.
- An additional international vehicle circulation permit from the Economic Community of West African States is required for Sierra Leone. Its Brown Card vehicle insurance document may also be requested in Liberia.
By sea
- Cargo and passenger ships use Queen Elizabeth II quay. Some passenger, cargo and private boats use Government Wharf in central Freetown.
- Boats arriving at Government Wharf often come from Conakry and Banjul. Ask cargo shipping agencies about services.
Customs
- Yellow fever vaccination certificates are required for most nationalities. Certificates are checked at the airport on arrival.
Getting around
Buses and minibuses
The Sierra Leone Road Transport Authority runs some buses between major cities. Privately run minibuses are called poda podas. There are no fixed stops, so passengers wave them down from the street. Poda podas are often dangerously overcrowded and poorly driven. Petty theft is common, so keep your belongings close.
Car
Main roads to Bo, Kenema and Makeni are described as being in excellent condition. Other routes have badly damaged sections. The Freetown–Masiaka road has toll points at Hastings, Songo and Masiaka. In early 2024, the short road between No. 2 Beach and Tokeh was nearly impassable without a high-clearance four-wheel-drive vehicle or motorbike. Roadworks can cause closures and diversions in Freetown. Side streets may have deep holes, loose stones and rough surfaces. Parking is prohibited on major routes such as Wilkinson Road, and stopping in roadside bays is limited. Police use wheel clamps. Police test drivers suspected of drinking alcohol. Do not drive after drinking.
Motorcycle taxis
Motorcycle taxi riders often travel fast on damaged roads. Potholes, dust and trucks add to the danger.
Walking
Watch for missing pavement slabs and open drains in Freetown. Poor street lighting makes walking at night hazardous. Carry a torch so you can see obstacles and drivers can see you.
What to see and do
Freetown Peninsula beaches
The peninsula has spectacular beaches that are often quiet or deserted.
Bonthe Town
This former British colonial town on Sherbro Island has stone churches and a rich local culture.
Tiwai Island
This river island in southeastern Sierra Leone has rare wildlife.
Outamba-Kilimi National Park
The park combines savanna and jungle with varied wildlife.
Mount Bintumani
Sierra Leone's highest mountain offers excellent views from its summit.
Turtle Islands
These islands are described as idyllic, though difficult to reach.
Food and drink
Rice with stew
Rice is the main staple, usually served with a stew that may contain meat, fish, greens and spices.
Seafood
Freetown has seafood including crab, lobster, oysters and snapper.
Leaf and vegetable dishes
Local meals often include cassava leaves, potato leaves and okra.
Fresh fruit
Fruit is sold by market vendors and is often picked locally.
Star and Mützig beer
Both are made by Sierra Leone Breweries Limited. Imported European beers and Guinness are also available.
Poyo
This is the Krio name for locally brewed palm wine, which is popular across the country.
Money
Sierra Leonean leone, written Le; currency code SLE.
- New currency introduced in July 2022 removed three zeros from the old leone. Old notes stopped being legal tender on 1 January 2024 and can now only be exchanged at the central bank.
- Some transport and budget figures in the source use old leones. Do not confuse those amounts with the new currency.
- Banks exchange money, and the small airport bank is described as offering reasonable rates. British pounds, euros and US dollars are the most commonly exchanged foreign currencies.
- More supermarkets, restaurants and hotels accept cards, mostly Visa. Airport duty-free shops accept major cards.
Tipping: For a village guesthouse arranged through the chief, the source suggests giving the chief about US$6–8 the next morning. It also describes expected payments to the caretaker, water carrier and others.
Typical costs
- Airport security fee: US$25 on arrival and US$25 on departure.
- Airport water taxi: around US$50 for one adult journey.
- Town guesthouse: usually US$35–50 for a single room, often with a shared bathroom.
- Average hotel: around US$100–180 for a single room.
- Group boat charter for a day trip: US$300–400.
Language
- English is the official language and is useful around the Freetown Peninsula.
- Krio is widely used between different language groups, but English speakers may struggle to understand it.
- Mende is the main local language in the south.
- Temne is the main local language in the north.
- Poyo
- Locally brewed palm wine.
- Poda poda
- A privately run minibus.
- Guest house
- A term understood in Krio when asking for village accommodation.
Staying safe
- Pickpocketing and bag-snatching occur in parts of Freetown. Police may not respond, so keep belongings close.
- Keep valuables in your cabin luggage when flying. Theft from checked bags has occurred at the airport.
- Overcrowded minibuses, fast motorcycle taxis and damaged roads are major travel hazards.
- Carry a torch at night. Poor lighting, open drains and traffic make walking dangerous.
Local customs
Do
- During Ramadan, expect many restaurants to stay closed until dusk.
- Allow for shorter working hours during Ramadan.
- For a village stay, ask the chief about a guesthouse and recognise that payments for hospitality and help are expected.
Don't
- Do not eat or drink in public during daylight hours in Ramadan, even if you are not Muslim; this is considered very impolite.
Staying healthy
- Get medical advice before travelling and make sure your vaccinations are up to date. Yellow fever vaccination is required for most nationalities, and rabies vaccination may be recommended.
- Malaria is a major danger. Take medical advice about preventive medicine, and use insect repellent and a mosquito net.
- Drink only bottled water. Pay attention to food hygiene and how thoroughly food is cooked.
- The source recommends local dishes over international dishes that may have been stored for longer.
Phone and internet
- The larger airport water-taxi boats have Wi-Fi.
Where to stay
- Freetown has some higher-standard hotels and guesthouses, including the four-star Radisson Blu Mammy Yoko.
- Facilities are much more limited outside Freetown. Makeni has two hotels described as good.
- Small resort-style places are available on Banana Island and Bonthe Island.
- Town guesthouses usually cost US$35–50 for a single room and often have shared bathrooms. Average hotels charge around US$100–180 for a single room.
Outdoor adventures in Sierra Leone
Sierra Leone has tropical islands, quiet beaches, rainforests and wildlife sanctuaries. Outdoor highlights include Mount Bintumani, wildlife watching on Tiwai Island, and diving or snorkelling around Banana Island. October to March is generally dry; rain is heaviest in July and August.
Lumley Beach
BeacheFreetown peninsulanear Freetown
October–March for generally dry weatherUse the paved path along the beach for walking or jogging. The beach is close to Freetown.
- Avoid the Aberdeen end, which is covered with rubbish.
Banana Island wreck diving and snorkelling
Scuba divingBanana Islands
Explore colonial warship wrecks by scuba diving or snorkelling around Banana Island.
Banana Island Beaches
BeacheBanana Islands
October–March for generally dry weatherMount Bintumani
Hike
October–March for generally dry weatherTiwai Island Wildlife Sanctuary
WildlifeSoutheastern Sierra Leone
October–March for generally dry weatherGola Rainforest National Park
WildlifeLiberian border
October–March for generally dry weatherOutamba-Kilimi National Park
Wildlife
October–March for generally dry weatherTacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary
WildlifeOutside Freetownnear Freetown
Visits at 10:30AM and 4PM daily, by appointmentUse a four-wheel-drive vehicle. Follow Regent Road through Hill Station and Leicester, watching for the entrance on the right. Arrange an appointment on +232-76-611211 or at info@tacugama.com.
- Permit: An appointment is required.
- Cost: Le 30,000; children Le 15,000.
- A four-wheel-drive vehicle is required for access.
No. 2 River Beach
BeacheFreetown peninsulanear Freetown
October–March for generally dry weatherContinue driving along the peninsula beyond Sussex. Minibuses only reach Lakka junction; onward public transport is by motorbike taxi.
- Beach access tracks can be poor and signs are limited.
- Motorbike taxis may travel fast on damaged roads.
Bureh Beach
BeacheFreetown peninsulanear Freetown
October–March for generally dry weatherDrive along the peninsula, or approach via Bai Bureh Road or Regent Road and turn right at Waterloo.
- Beach access tracks can be poor and signs are limited.
Lakka Beach
BeacheFreetown peninsulanear Freetown
October–March for generally dry weatherDrive about 10 minutes from Lumley. Minibuses reach Lakka junction; onward public transport is by motorbike taxi.
- Roads and beach access tracks can be poor off the main road.
- Motorbike taxis may travel fast on damaged roads.
Tokeh Beach
BeacheFreetown peninsulanear Freetown
October–March for generally dry weatherDrive along the peninsula, or use Bai Bureh Road or Regent Road and turn right at Waterloo. The road from Tokeh junction is paved.
- Beach access tracks can be poor and signs are limited.
Turtle Islands
Beache
October–March for generally dry weatherCharlotte Falls
More to doCharlotte villagenear Freetown
Head to Charlotte village, southwest of Freetown.
Banana Island sport fishing
More to doBanana Islands
Charter a boat for game fishing, or join a short fishing trip from Banana Island's fishing lodges.
Goderich Beach
BeacheFreetown peninsulanear Freetown
October–March for generally dry weatherGoderich is on the peninsula route from Lumley towards Lakka.
- Beach signs can be limited and access tracks poor.
Sussex Beach
BeacheFreetown peninsulanear Freetown
October–March for generally dry weatherDrive along the peninsula road from Lumley towards Sussex.
- Beach access tracks can be poor and signs are limited.
John Obey Beach
BeacheFreetown peninsulanear Freetown
October–March for generally dry weatherDrive along the peninsula, or approach via Bai Bureh Road or Regent Road and turn right at Waterloo.
- Beach access tracks can be poor and signs are limited.
York Beach
BeacheFreetown peninsulanear Freetown
October–March for generally dry weatherDrive along the peninsula, or approach via Bai Bureh Road or Regent Road and turn right at Waterloo.
- Beach access tracks can be poor and signs are limited.
Black Johnson Beach
BeacheFreetown peninsulanear Freetown
October–March for generally dry weatherDrive along the peninsula, or approach via Bai Bureh Road or Regent Road and turn right at Waterloo.
- Beach access tracks can be poor and signs are limited.
Kent Beach
BeacheFreetown peninsulanear Freetown
October–March for generally dry weatherDrive along the peninsula, or approach via Bai Bureh Road or Regent Road and turn right at Waterloo.
- Beach access tracks can be poor and signs are limited.
Mamah Beach
BeacheFreetown peninsulanear Freetown
October–March for generally dry weatherDrive along the peninsula, or approach via Bai Bureh Road or Regent Road and turn right at Waterloo.
- Beach access tracks can be poor and signs are limited.
Hamilton Beach
BeacheFreetown peninsulanear Freetown
Hamilton lies along the peninsula beach route between Lakka and Sussex.
Freetown Golf Club golf and tennis
More to doLumley Beach Roadnear Freetown
October–March for generally dry weatherVisit the club on Lumley Beach Road, just off Lumley Beach, for golf or tennis.
Airports, metros and trains in Sierra Leone
Airports with scheduled flights
- FNALungi International AirportFreetown (Lungi-Town)Main international airport
Trains
- Rail network
- 84 km
People and safety in Sierra Leone
Religion
Most people are Muslim. Mixed.
- Muslim78%
- Christian21%
- Folk religions1%
LGBT+ travellers
Same-sex relationships are illegal
- The law allows life imprisonment.
- Some laws protect against discrimination.
Check your own government's travel advice before you go, and be careful with public displays of affection and dating apps.
Women travellers
Ranked #133 of 181 countries for women's safety, inclusion and justice.
50% of women say they feel safe walking alone at night where they live.
Who can visit without a visa
Travellers from 123 of 198 countries can visit Sierra Leone easily: no visa, a visa at the airport, or a short online form.
- Visa not required15
- Visa on arrival108
- eVisa72
- Visa required3
Who can visit easily, by part of the world
For each part of the world: how many countries' travellers can come easily. Easy means no visa, a visa at the airport, or a short online form.
- Africa38 of 53 countries
- Oceania10 of 14 countries
- Europe31 of 46 countries
- Asia28 of 50 countries
- Americas16 of 35 countries
Questions
When is the best time to visit Sierra Leone?
October to March is generally dry, hot and sunny. Rain is heaviest in July and August.
How do I get from the airport to Freetown?
Most visitors take a water taxi from Lungi, costing around US$50 per adult. Car ferries and smaller boats also operate, but safety concerns apply to all transfer options.
Can I pay by card?
An increasing number of hotels, restaurants and supermarkets accept cards, mostly Visa. Cash machines are available in Freetown and other larger towns.
Will people understand English?
English is official and useful around the Freetown Peninsula. Krio is widely used, while Mende is the main local language in the south and Temne in the north.
Are local minibuses safe?
Poda podas are often dangerously overloaded and poorly driven. Petty theft is also common on them.
Can I drink the water?
Drink only bottled water. Water-borne diseases are common.
What food should I expect?
Rice with stew is the main meal, often with meat, fish, greens and spices. Seafood, vegetable dishes and fresh fruit are also common.
Is accommodation cheap?
Accommodation can be expensive for the facilities offered. Town guesthouses usually cost US$35–50 for a single room, while average hotels charge around US$100–180.
Where can I see wildlife?
Tiwai Island has rare wildlife. Outamba-Kilimi National Park has varied wildlife across savanna and jungle.
What should I expect during Ramadan?
Many restaurants close until dusk and working hours are shorter. Avoid eating or drinking in public during daylight hours.
Reviewed by @snuck