
Caribbean
DominicaTravel guide
- Roseau
- Portsmouth
- Scott's Head
- Calibishie
- St. Joseph
Dominica is a Caribbean island country known for mountains, rainforests, waterfalls and hot springs. Its capital is Roseau. It is a different country from the Dominican Republic.
Why go
Explore the mountains, lakes and waterfalls of Morne Trois Pitons National Park.
Take a challenging hike to Boiling Lake, the world's second-largest thermally active lake.
Snorkel at Champagne or Scotts Head.
Learn about the island's indigenous Kalinago people at Kalinago Barana Autê.
Look for the critically endangered Sisserou Parrot in the mountain forests.
Getting there
By air
- Dominica has two airports: Douglas–Charles Airport, also called Melville Hall, and Canefield Airport. Most commercial flights arrive at Douglas–Charles.
- The source lists connections through San Juan, Antigua, Barbados, St. Maarten, Martinique and Guadeloupe.
- Canefield is 5 km from Roseau. Melville Hall is about one hour from Portsmouth.
By sea
- Express des Isles runs ferries between Dominica, Martinique and Guadeloupe on most days of the week. Ferries arrive in Roseau.
- The source says the ferry harbour tax must be paid in cash at the terminal.
Customs
- Before buying Kalinago baskets to take home, check that your home country allows their materials to be brought in.
Getting around
Rental car
Drive on the left. Car rental agencies are available at both airports. Mountain roads have tight bends, so even short distances can take a long time. A compact car is enough for most trips; a large four-wheel-drive vehicle can be awkward on narrow streets. Sound your horn at tight, sharp bends, especially during the day. Watch for large trucks, potholes and broken road surfaces. Wide trucks can force other drivers off the road. During very heavy rain in the mountains, consider stopping for a while or driving very slowly. Ask local people for directions if you get lost.
Bus
Buses are an option for travellers with a small budget and plenty of time, except on Sundays. Long rides can be bumpy and uncomfortable on winding mountain roads. Agree on the destination and price before the trip starts.
Taxi
Taxis are more comfortable than buses. Sharing with two or more travellers may make the fare more affordable. Agree on the destination and price before the trip starts.
Hitchhiking
The source lists hitchhiking as an option for travellers with a small budget and plenty of time, except on Sundays.
What to see and do
Morne Trois Pitons National Park
This protected mountain area has misty lakes, waterfalls, rivers, hot springs and volcanic steam vents. Laudat is a starting point for exploring it.
Emerald Pool and Titou Gorge
These are places to enjoy Dominica's forest scenery. The source also recommends swimming at Emerald Pool.
Roseau
The capital has restaurants, small shops and views of the mountains and Caribbean Sea. Visit the Botanic Gardens for a quieter break.
Old British fort at Portsmouth
Explore a historic fort on the north-west coast. Allow one to two hours; a small fee may apply.
Kalinago Barana Autê
A guided village tour introduces Kalinago history and traditions. Activities include canoe building, cassava processing and basket weaving.
Scotts Head
A steep walk up this southern coastal outcrop gives views of Dominica's south-west coast, the Caribbean Sea and Martinique. The drive from Roseau takes about one hour each way.
Food and drink
Black Boys Bar, Newtown
This waterside bar serves local food and rum, with reggae music. The source lists opening hours of 8 AM to midnight.
Fried plantains, codfish and bakes
These are among the foods to try at Black Boys Bar.
Fried fish and tamarind balls
Both are also served at Black Boys Bar.
Grapefruit juice
Freshly squeezed grapefruit juice is widely available.
Coconut water
The source describes coconut water as cheap and easy to find at roadside stalls.
Sorrel
This red drink is made by boiling hibiscus flowers. It is associated with Christmas.
Money
Eastern Caribbean dollar (XCD), written as EC$ or $.
- The Eastern Caribbean dollar is fixed at EC$2.70 to US$1.
- One dollar is divided into 100 cents.
- Carry cash for the ferry harbour tax, which the source says is cash only.
Typical costs
- Kalinago Barana Autê: US$10 per person for a guided tour lasting 30–45 minutes.
- Serenity Lodges Dominica: from US$69 without air conditioning.
- A July 2019 ferry fare to Martinique was €69 one way online, plus a harbour tax of EC$86, US$33 or €35. This is a dated price.
Language
- English is the official language.
- French patois is also spoken.
Staying safe
- The source describes Dominica as one of the safer destinations in the region. Take usual precautions, especially around Roseau, where rare petty crimes are most likely.
- Flash floods are a constant threat because of heavy rainfall.
- Destructive hurricanes can occur from late summer well into autumn.
- Mountain roads can have sharp bends, potholes and broken surfaces. Drive slowly in very heavy rain.
Staying healthy
- Public tap water is described as safe to drink, but it can turn brown after heavy rain. The source recommends bottled water, which is widely available.
- Most juice sold by vendors in Roseau is not pasteurized. It usually contains added water and sugar, with the water generally coming from chlorinated taps.
- Basic healthcare is available at Princess Margaret Hospital in Roseau.
- Mosquitoes can spread dengue fever. Towns are sprayed with insecticide, but spraying may not happen on schedule.
Phone and internet
- Digicel offers prepaid mobile plans for short visits.
- Cable & Wireless and Orange also provide mobile service.
- Dominica's telephone area code is 767, within the North American telephone system. The country calling code is +1 767.
Where to stay
- Many places to stay are outside the towns. Visitors arriving by cruise ship usually sleep onboard.
- Jungle Bay Resort & Spa offers treetop cottages and spa services.
- Veranda View is a small guest house on the main road in Calibishie, about 15 minutes from Melville Hall Airport.
- Pointe Baptiste Villa and Cottage has historic wooden houses near Calibishie, with gardens, coastal forest, beaches and coves.
Outdoor adventures in Dominica
Dominica has rainforest hikes, volcanic lakes, waterfalls and a mountainous coast. You can snorkel above bubbling underwater vents, take wildlife boat trips from Roseau or watch nesting turtles. Heavy rain, flash floods and steep trails need careful planning.
Boiling Lake and Valley of Desolation
HikeMorne Trois Pitons National Parknear Laudat
Hard About 6–8 hours of hiking; allow extra time for travel.Head to Laudat for access to the national park. The hike goes from Titou Gorge through the Valley of Desolation to Boiling Lake. A guide is recommended for less experienced hikers.
- The route is very steep, with many steps and zigzag climbs.
- The ground is rough and often wet.
Champagne Beach
SnorkellingSouthern coastnear Roseau
Take a taxi, bus or private car south from Roseau. Walk a short distance down from the road to the water.
Middleham Falls
HikeMorne Trois Pitons National Parknear Roseau
Moderate About 1 hour each way, plus at least 30 minutes at the falls.Drive roughly an hour northeast from Roseau to the trailhead. Walk to the waterfall and pool, then return along the trail.
- Parts of the trail can be challenging.
Morne Trois Pitons National Park
HikeMorne Trois Pitons National Parknear Laudat
Head to the mountain village of Laudat for hikes through the park.
- Heavy rain can cause flash floods.
Emerald Pool
Hikenear Roseau
A short hike.Take a short drive from Roseau, followed by a short walk to the waterfall and pool.
Titou Gorge
More to doMorne Trois Pitons National Park
Explore the gorge during a visit to Morne Trois Pitons National Park. It is also the starting point described for the Boiling Lake hike.
- Flash floods are a constant threat on the island.
Scotts Head
HikeSouthern tip of Dominicanear Scotts Head
Drive about an hour each way from Roseau to Scotts Head. Hike up the steep outcrop for coastal views.
- The climb up the outcrop is steep.
Whale and dolphin watching from Roseau
Wildlifenear Roseau
Arrange a whale-watching, dolphin-watching or boat trip from Roseau.
Glassy
HikeSoutheast Dominica
2–3 hours.Follow the trail through farmland and a rainforest valley to the coast. It passes steep cliffs and ends on an old volcanic flow extending into the sea.
- The cliff sections are unsuitable for people who fear heights.
- Waves can throw people against rocks or pull them into the sea. Keep away from cliff edges.
Jaco Steps
HikeCentral Dominicanear Belles
About 30 minutes to reach the steps; a circular route adds at least 1 hour.Cross the creek at Belles and hike into the rainforest towards the forest plateau. For a circular route, continue upstream along the river.
- The route starts with a creek crossing.
- The circular route requires several river crossings.
Turtle watching at Mangrove Bay
WildlifeWoodford Hill Beach, northeast Dominica
April–OctoberVisit the protected turtle-viewing site at Mangrove Bay on Woodford Hill Beach.
Turtle watching on Portsmouth beaches
WildlifeNorthwest Dominicanear Portsmouth
April–OctoberVisit the protected turtle-viewing sites on the beaches around Portsmouth.
Roseau Botanical Gardens hill walk
HikeRoseaunear Roseau
Moderate About 40 minutes one way for a novice hiker.Start at the Botanical Gardens, just east of downtown Roseau. Follow the hike up the hill to the east to reach the lookout.
- Cost: Free.
Airports, metros and trains in Dominica
Airports with scheduled flights
- DCFCanefield AirportCanefield
- DOMDouglas-Charles AirportMarigot
People and safety in Dominica
Religion
Most people are Christian. Mostly one faith.
- Christian94%
- Folk religions3%
- Other2%
- No religion<1%
LGBT+ travellers
Legal
- Same-sex marriage is not recognised.
- Some laws protect against discrimination.
Who can visit without a visa
Travellers from 197 of 198 countries can visit Dominica easily: no visa, a visa at the airport, or a short online form.
- Visa not required195
- Freedom of movement2
- Visa required1
Who can visit easily, by part of the world
For each part of the world: how many countries' travellers can come easily. Easy means no visa, a visa at the airport, or a short online form.
- Africa54 of 54 countries
- Asia50 of 50 countries
- Europe46 of 46 countries
- Oceania14 of 14 countries
- Americas33 of 34 countries
Questions
Is Dominica the same as the Dominican Republic?
No. Dominica is a separate Caribbean island country; the Dominican Republic is on Hispaniola.
What weather should I expect?
Dominica has a tropical climate with heavy rain, moderated by north-east trade winds. Flash floods are a constant threat, and destructive hurricanes can occur from late summer into autumn.
What money does Dominica use?
The Eastern Caribbean dollar, written as EC$ or XCD. Its value is fixed at EC$2.70 to US$1.
Can I get around without renting a car?
Buses and taxis are available. Buses suit travellers with time and a small budget, except on Sundays; agree on the destination and fare before either kind of trip.
What language is spoken?
English is the official language. French patois is also spoken.
Can I drink the tap water?
The source says public tap water is safe, but it can turn brown after heavy rain. Bottled water is widely available and is recommended in the source.
Is the Boiling Lake hike easy?
No. It is a lengthy, challenging hike, and the source recommends allowing at least eight hours for the round trip, including driving.
What electrical supply does Dominica use?
The supply is 230 volts at 50 hertz. Sockets use British and related plug types, including BS 1363.
What souvenirs can I buy?
Kalinago baskets, local music and cacao sticks for cocoa tea are listed. Check whether basket materials can be brought into your home country, and watch for pirated music copies.
How can I get a mobile connection?
Digicel offers prepaid plans for short visits. Cable & Wireless and Orange also provide mobile service.
Reviewed by @snuck