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Southern Africa

EswatiniTravel guide

Explore Eswatini visa rulesCommon scams in Eswatini

Eswatini, still commonly called Swaziland, is a small, landlocked country between South Africa and Mozambique. It is known for wildlife, national parks, scenery and living traditions.

Why go

  1. Visit national parks and wildlife reserves.

  2. Explore varied scenery, from the western Highveld to the eastern Lowveld.

  3. Experience traditional culture, ceremonies and local crafts.

Best time to go: Winter is the dry season. Summer brings rain and thunderstorms, and the eastern Lowveld can reach around 40°C.

Getting there

By air

  • King Mswati III International Airport, also called Sikhuphe, is the country's only international airport. Its airport code is SHO.
  • Flights connect with Cape Town, Durban, Johannesburg, Harare and Lusaka.
  • The airport has a small car rental station, a snack shop and free wireless internet.

By land

  • International minibuses serve Johannesburg, Durban, Cape Town and Maputo. Most public bus services arrive in Mbabane or Manzini.
  • Some larger buses stop at the border, where you must find another service for the next part of your journey.
  • SiyeSwatini TransMagnific runs daily road transport, including stops at Johannesburg airport. Book and pay at least one day before travel; the trip takes about five hours.

Customs

  • Meat cannot be taken into certain areas. Border soldiers may search you and your vehicle thoroughly.
  • Stay out of the five-kilometre strip between Mozambique and Eswatini known as No-Man's Land. Soldiers guarding this area have shot people.

Getting around

  • Car

    A car is the quickest way to get around this small country. Drive on the left. Main highways are generally in good condition, but other roads can have potholes or poor surfaces. A four-wheel-drive vehicle is needed for much of the interior. Watch for cattle, goats and drivers overtaking without warning. Roadsides are often used for grazing. Avoid driving after dark. Carjacking is a risk on the N4 route from South Africa via Oshoek and on the road across the border into Mozambique.

  • Kombi minibus

    Kombis are shared minibuses that follow a general route and collect passengers along the way. An assistant usually asks your destination and collects the fare. Expect crowded seats, loud music and sometimes reckless driving. Larger Sprinter vans are described as a safer and faster choice. You can usually flag down a kombi on a main road. Major transport hubs include Manzini, Mbabane, Pigg's Peak, Nhlangano, Siteki and Big Bend. Destinations are usually written on the front bumper. People at the bus station may help you find a vehicle, but double-check with passengers. Watch your belongings at bus stations and avoid them at night. Kombi operators do not accept South African rand coins.

  • Taxi

    Travel becomes difficult after dark, when taxis are the only option. If staying around Mbabane or Manzini, keep phone numbers for a couple of taxi drivers. Taxi drivers may overcharge.

What to see and do

  • National parks and reserves

    These are the country's main sights, with wildlife and natural scenery.

  • Reed Dance, or Umhlanga

    This three-day traditional ceremony takes place around August and draws thousands of young women from across Eswatini.

  • King's Birthday celebrations

    The birthday on 19 April is marked by a national day off and local festivities.

  • Shop for local crafts

    Small shops sell wooden sculptures, handmade bags and Swazi foods.

  • Explore Manzini's markets

    The markets and local shops offer a wide range of foods.

  • Visit House on Fire

    This popular open-air venue in the Malkerns area offers local art, music and live performances.

Food and drink

  • Mealie or pap

    A maize-based staple similar to porridge.

  • Chicken dust

    An inexpensive meal of chicken grilled outdoors, served with salad and mealie. Take care when choosing street food.

  • Local meat dishes

    Tourist restaurants commonly serve dried or cooked local meats, including antelope.

  • Common traditional ingredients

    Beans, groundnuts, pumpkin, avocado and sour milk are widely used.

  • Roadside food

    Roadside sellers often offer sweet breads, vegetables and fruit.

  • The Hub, Manzini

    A large Spar supermarket sells Western foods and imported goods at higher prices. Coffee shops and restaurants are nearby.

Money

Lilangeni, plural emalangeni. The currency code is SZL; L means one lilangeni and E is used for larger amounts.

  • The lilangeni is fixed at the same value as the South African rand.
  • Shops usually accept banknotes in either currency and may give change in either. Coin acceptance differs, and kombis do not take rand coins.
  • South African vendors do not accept emalangeni. Before continuing there, you can request rand at banks in Mbabane or Manzini; identification is required.
  • You cannot exchange emalangeni at Johannesburg airport or in the United Kingdom.

Typical costs

  • Mahamba road toll: 50 South African rand.
  • Sundowners Backpackers camping: from around E70 per night.
  • Sundowners Backpackers dorm bed: from around E120 per night.
  • Sundowners Backpackers private room: from around E200 per night.

Language

  • English is the official language of business.
  • SiSwati, also called Swazi, is spoken almost exclusively in some rural areas. Learning a little is recommended.

Staying safe

  • Avoid walking alone after dark, especially outside Mbabane and Manzini, where street lighting is limited.
  • Keep money hidden and watch your belongings at bus stations. Avoid bus stations at night.
  • Be cautious around police. Officers have been known to detain and mistreat foreigners over minor offences such as crossing roads improperly or speeding.
  • Never stand between a hippo and the water. Hippos can move quickly and may defend their territory or young.
1 common scams in Eswatini, and how to avoid them

Local customs

Do

  • Be careful about public comments on the king and royal family, as loyalty to them is strong.
  • Dress modestly. Shorts and sleeveless shirts are usually acceptable.
  • Treat local traditions and traditional healers with respect.

Don't

  • Do not mock traditional healers or call them witch doctors.
  • Do not display expensive foods in front of people in poor rural communities, particularly children.

Staying healthy

  • Medical services are poorly funded and maintained. If you become ill, travelling to South Africa for care is recommended.
  • Human immunodeficiency virus, or HIV, is widespread. Use protection during sex and consider HIV testing with a partner.
  • Infected streams can carry bilharzia, a disease linked to contact with contaminated freshwater.
  • Malaria is a seasonal risk in the northeast near Mozambique. Use mosquito nets and repellent where needed.

Phone and internet

  • The two mobile operators are MTN-Swazi and Eswatin mobile. MTN is described as having better coverage.
  • MTN-Swazi starter packs are widely sold at fuel stations and grocery stores. Registration requires proof of residence and identification or a passport.
  • South African mobile cards generally do not work locally, except MTN cards with roaming enabled.
  • Starter cards expire within 30 days if unused and cannot be used in South Africa.

Where to stay

  • Veki's Guesthouse in Mbabane is suggested for travellers on a budget.
  • Grifter's Backpackers in Mbabane is listed at around E120 for a bunk, but whether it still operates is unclear.
  • Sundowners Backpackers offers camping from around E70, dorm beds from E120 and private rooms from E200 per night.
  • Mountain Inn offers higher-end accommodation and leisure facilities.

Outdoor adventures in Eswatini

Eswatini has wildlife reserves, grassy hills, waterfalls and hikes, including the climb to the top of Sibebe Rock. This landlocked country has dry winters and summer rain, often with thunderstorms.

  • Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary

    Wildlifenear Lobamba

    From Manzini, follow MR3, then MR18, MR103 and D55. The sanctuary opens daily from 6am to 6pm.

  • Sibebe Rock

    Hikenear Mbabane

    Travel 8 km northeast of Mbabane to Sibebe Rock. You can hike to the top.

    • Cost: E30, listed for Swazi Trails.
    • Summer thunderstorms bring a lightning risk.

  • Hlane Royal National Park

    Wildlife

    Confirm visitor access and viewing arrangements with the park before travelling.

  • Mkhaya Game Reserve

    Wildlife

    Confirm visitor access and game-viewing arrangements with the reserve before travelling.

  • Malolotja Nature Reserve

    More to do

    Confirm visitor access and available outdoor activities with the reserve before travelling.

  • Mantenga Nature Reserve and waterfall walk

    Hikenear Lobamba

    Enter through Mantenga Cultural Village, one of several entrances. From Manzini, take MR18 northwest to the Ligugu Road cultural village turnoff. The village opens from 8am to 5pm.

  • Mlawula Nature Reserve

    More to do

    Confirm visitor access and available outdoor activities with the reserve before travelling.

  • Hawane Nature Reserve walking trail

    Hikenear Mbabane

    Visit Hawane Nature Reserve for its walking trail. Confirm directions and entry arrangements before setting out.

  • Nsangwini Rock Art Tour

    More to doAbove the Komati River

    Call +268 78121139 to arrange the rock art tour. It runs daily at a site above the Komati River.

    • Cost: R50 per person.

Airports, metros and trains in Eswatini

Airports with scheduled flights

  • SHOKing Mswati III International AirportMpakaMain international airport

Trains

Rail network
301 km

People and safety in Eswatini

Religion

Most people are Christian. Mostly one faith.

  • Christian88%
  • No religion10%
  • Muslim2%
  • Folk religions1%

LGBT+ travellers

Same-sex relationships are illegal

  • The law allows imprisonment.
  • Legal gender change is recognised.
  • Some laws protect against discrimination.

Check your own government's travel advice before you go, and be careful with public displays of affection and dating apps.

Women travellers

Ranked #148 of 181 countries for women's safety, inclusion and justice.

32% of women say they feel safe walking alone at night where they live.

Who can visit without a visa

Travellers from 93 of 198 countries can visit Eswatini easily: no visa, a visa at the airport, or a short online form.

  • Visa not required92
  • Visa on arrival1
  • eVisa1
  • Visa required104

Who can visit easily, by part of the world

For each part of the world: how many countries' travellers can come easily. Easy means no visa, a visa at the airport, or a short online form.

  • Europe39 of 46 countries
  • Oceania8 of 14 countries
  • Americas16 of 35 countries
  • Africa16 of 53 countries
  • Asia14 of 50 countries

Questions

Are Eswatini and Swaziland the same country?

Yes. Eswatini was formerly called Swaziland, and the older name is still commonly used.

What weather should I prepare for?

Winter is dry, while summer brings rain and thunderstorms. The western Highveld is milder, while the eastern Lowveld can reach around 40°C in summer.

Can I arrive without flying?

Yes. Road services connect with South African cities and Maputo in Mozambique, and several border posts accept cars.

How do I find the right minibus?

Look for the destination on the front bumper and ask for help at the bus station. Double-check the route with passengers before leaving.

Can I use South African rand?

Yes, rand banknotes are widely accepted. Kombis do not accept rand coins, and South African vendors do not accept Eswatini's currency.

Will I be able to speak English?

English is the official language of business. In rural areas, SiSwati may be spoken almost exclusively, so learning a little can help.

What local food can I try?

Try maize-based pap or chicken dust, which is grilled chicken with salad and mealie. Beans, groundnuts, pumpkin and sour milk are also common.

Can I drink tap water?

Tap water is drinkable in major cities, but may be unsafe in rural areas.

Where can I find budget accommodation?

Options include Veki's Guesthouse in Mbabane and Sundowners Backpackers. Sundowners lists camping, dorm beds and private rooms.

Can I buy a local mobile card after arrival?

Yes. MTN-Swazi starter packs are widely available at fuel stations and grocery stores, and registration requires proof of residence and identification or a passport.

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