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Western Africa

GhanaTravel guide

Ghana is a country in West Africa with Accra as its capital. Good infrastructure, political stability and widespread English make it welcoming for first-time visitors to the region.

Why go

  1. People are generally helpful and welcoming.

  2. Markets sell cloth, beads, drums and wooden crafts.

  3. Traditional food includes fufu, banku, jollof rice and waakye.

  4. Local bars called spots offer music and a chance to meet Ghanaians.

Getting there

By air

  • International flights arrive at Kotoka International Airport in Accra. Its airport code is ACC.
  • The airport is central, with taxis and airport shuttles available.
  • Flights connect Accra with cities in Africa, Europe, the Middle East and North America.

By land

  • There are no international passenger train connections.
  • Road crossings include Aflao at the Togo border and Elubo at the Côte d’Ivoire border.
  • State Transport Corporation runs buses to some major West African cities. ABC Transport runs a service from Lagos to Accra.

By sea

  • There are no authorised boat services into Ghana.

Customs

  • Bring your yellow fever vaccination certificate. You must present it when entering Ghana.
  • Keep cameras packed away at border crossings. Taking photographs may lead to guards taking your camera or reprimanding you.
  • Check the entry dates stamped in your passport. The stamp determines your allowed stay, even if your visa has a longer validity.

Getting around

  • Domestic flights

    The source lists Passion Air services linking Accra, Kumasi and Tamale, and Africa World Airlines services also reaching Takoradi. These airline details date from 2019. The source says domestic services change regularly.

  • Buses

    Operators include Intercity STC, VIP Jeoun Transport, VVIP Transport and O.A. Travel and Tours. Many buses have air conditioning, assigned seats and food and toilet stops. STC generally follows posted departure times. Other operators may involve waits of one to three extra hours. Metro Mass Transit can be several hours late and does not assign seats. The source describes Metro buses as the cheapest way to travel between towns. Breakdowns happen, and seatbelts are not guaranteed. Private intercity buses do not serve rural areas. Pasenja and Yenko compare bus connections.

  • Driving

    Drive on the right. Road quality varies, and many roads outside Accra and the main routes are dirt tracks. Avoid the Techiman–Bole road if possible because of its poor condition. Most northern roads need a vehicle with four-wheel drive. An ordinary car is not recommended, even where it can manage in the dry season. Foreign-registered vehicles cannot travel between 18:00 and 06:00. Breaking this rule can lead to a fine and the vehicle being held overnight. Some road checkpoints are fake. Officers may invent offences and demand bribes.

  • Trains

    The source's early-2021 information lists commuter trains between Accra and Tema and in Sekondi-Takoradi. Much of the rail network had been inactive. The source does not confirm later passenger services.

What to see and do

  • Visit a market

    Large cities have daily markets, while village markets open on particular days. Look for cloth, beads, musical instruments and bags.

  • Learn about local cloth

    Ankara and kente patterns and colours have meanings. Ask the seller what a design represents.

  • Visit a spot

    These local bars have blue and white stripes outside. They offer a chance to meet people and hear hip-life music.

  • Experience Christmas celebrations

    Christmas is an official holiday marked by family gatherings, feasts, carols and church services.

Food and drink

  • Fufu

    Pounded yam, plantain or cassava served with soup and meat or fish stew. Soups may contain groundnuts, palm nuts, okra or other vegetables.

  • Banku

    A fermented corn dish, often eaten with grilled tilapia or okra soup.

  • Jollof rice

    Rice cooked in a tomato-based sauce with vegetables, meat and spices. Recipes vary.

  • Waakye

    Beans and rice, usually served with gari, a powder made from ground cassava.

  • Kelewele

    A snack of spiced, fried plantain.

  • Fresh fruit

    Seasonal choices include pineapple, mango, papaya, coconut, oranges and bananas.

Money

Ghana cedi (GHS), written GH₵; one cedi equals 100 pesewas.

  • Mobile money is widely used for small and large payments. Services include MTN Mobile Money, Telecel Cash and AirtelTigo Money, and require a local phone card.
  • Euros, US dollars and pounds sterling can be exchanged at currency exchange offices. Accra has many, with fewer in other major cities.
  • If bringing US dollars, use notes from the 2009 series or later. Banks and exchange offices reject older notes.
  • Some major tourist hotels accept US dollars, but do not rely on this.

Language

  • English is the official language and is widely used between people who speak different local languages.
  • More than 40 languages are spoken, including Twi, Fante, Akuapem, Krobo, Ga, Ewe and Dagbani.
  • Hausa is also used between different language groups in the north and among Ghanaian Muslims.
Good morning / Good afternoon
Important everyday greetings; respond with the same greeting.
Obruni
An Akan word for a foreigner, literally meaning white man; it may be called out to any tourist.

Staying safe

  • The source describes Ghana as stable, with relatively low crime compared with other West African countries. Take sensible precautions.
  • Avoid using your phone openly in the street. Phone snatching has been reported.
  • The source states that sex between men is illegal and that people suspected of being gay or queer face targeting and extortion.
  • Gas tanker explosions have occurred repeatedly, including in populated residential and industrial areas.
2 common scams in Ghana, and how to avoid them

Local customs

Do

  • Greet people before starting a conversation. Return good morning or good afternoon, and ask how the person is doing.
  • Follow your host's lead when learning the Ghanaian handshake, which ends with a finger snap.
  • Ask hosts what to wear to weddings, funerals and other important events. Appropriate colours and clothing vary with the occasion and family tradition.

Don't

  • Do not eat or offer things with your left hand.
  • Avoid eating or drinking in public during Ramadan fasting hours, from dawn to sunset. The source describes this as impolite, even for non-Muslims.

Staying healthy

  • Malaria is widespread and resistant to chloroquine, a malaria medicine. Use mosquito repellent, avoid mosquito bites and take preventive malaria medicine.
  • Yellow fever vaccination is required for entry. The source also recommends hepatitis A, hepatitis B, cholera and typhoid vaccinations for travel within Ghana.
  • Meningitis risk is very high in the northern third of Ghana, especially from December to June. The source notes that a vaccine covering several types is available.
  • Use protection during sex to reduce the risk of human immunodeficiency virus (HIV). Avoid contact with still freshwater because of schistosomiasis, an infection caused by parasites.

Phone and internet

  • Mobile operators include MTN, Telecel and AT. A SIM card is the small card that connects a phone to a mobile network.
  • Buying a card does not activate it. Registration requires identity details and biometric information, such as fingerprints, collected by an authorised worker.
  • The source says registration may require a particular Ghana-issued identity card. A planned option to register with a foreign passport may not be available.
  • You may need a foreign phone card with a suitable roaming plan to make and receive calls.

Where to stay

  • Accommodation ranges from basic places to luxury hotels.
  • The source says high-end hotels can cost more than comparable hotels in the United States.
  • For stays of a few months, houses can be rented. Look for advertisements in local newspapers and places visited by foreign residents, including Koala supermarket and Ryan's Irish pub.

Outdoor adventures in Ghana

Ghana offers savannah safaris, rainforest walks, waterfalls and beaches. You can walk above the trees at Kakum, look for wildlife at Mole, or take boat trips on Lake Volta and the River Volta. English is widely spoken, which helps first-time visitors.

  • Mole National Park safaris

    SafariNorthern Plains

    Explore the park on a driving or walking safari. Overnight camping on the savannah is also possible.

  • Kakum National Park canopy walk

    WildlifeCoastal Plain

    Visit the park and walk along its raised rope bridges above the rainforest.

  • Shai Hills Resource Reserve

    Wildlifenear Accra

    Day trip

    Visit the reserve on Akosombo–Tema Road as a day trip from Accra. Horseback tours are available.

    • Cost: GHS 40 for the first hour, listed in August 2020.
  • Wli Falls

    More to doAgumatsa Wildlife Sanctuary

    Visit the falls in Agumatsa Wildlife Sanctuary near the Togo border.

  • Boti Falls

    More to doEastern Regionnear Koforidua

    Visit Boti village in the Manya Krobo district. Access to the falls involves 200 steps down.

  • Lake Bosumtwi

    More to doAshanti Regionnear Kumasi

    Take a tro-tro, a shared minibus, or a private taxi from Kumasi. The road journey is about 35 km and may take about one hour. Abono is a common drop-off point.

    • Cost: A private taxi was listed at about GHS 50 in September 2013.
    • Avoid contact with still freshwater because of the risk of schistosomiasis, a disease caused by parasites.
    • Avoid the Jakad tourist information centre in Abono; a community-donation scam was reported there.
  • Owabi Wildlife Sanctuary guided walks

    Wildlifenear Kumasi

    Travel northwest from Kumasi, about 30–45 minutes away. Take a tro-tro to Esaase or Owabi, or use a private taxi. From the Esaase stop, walk about 1–2 km. Arrange guided walks at the visitor centre.

    • Cost: Entry listed at GHS 6 in August 2020; the guided-walk price is not specified.
  • Lake Volta boat trips

    More to doVolta Basinnear Akosombo

    Take a trip out onto Lake Volta. Akosombo Dam also provides a viewpoint over the lake.

    • Avoid contact with still freshwater because of the risk of schistosomiasis, a disease caused by parasites.
  • River Volta trips at Ada

    More to doCoastal Plainnear Ada

    Go to Ada for a trip on the River Volta.

  • Labadi Beach

    BeacheAccranear Accra

    Good-weather weekends for beach entertainment.

    Enter from La By-pass, also called Labadi Road. Guests of La Palm or Labadi Beach Hotel can use their hotel's back gate for free beach access.

    • Cost: Beach entry listed at GHS 5 in August 2020; free beach access for guests of the two adjoining hotels.
    • Avoid visiting after dark.
    • Stay hydrated in the hot coastal climate.
  • Bojo Beach

    BeacheAccra areanear Accra

    Take the N1 southwest from Accra, then turn south onto Atta Mills Road towards Kokrobite. Cross the Densu Delta by boat to reach the beach.

    • Cost: About GHS 20 for the boat crossing to the beach, listed in August 2020.
    • Keep watch over your valuables.
  • Kokrobite beaches

    BeacheCoastal Plain

    Visit the beaches at Kokrobite. Beachfront hotel stays are an option.

    • Stay hydrated in the hot coastal climate.
  • Winneba beaches

    Beachenear Winneba

    Visit the beaches at Winneba. Beachfront hotel stays are an option.

    • Stay hydrated in the hot coastal climate.
  • Prampram beaches

    Beachenear Accra

    Visit the beaches in Prampram, a town near Accra.

  • Tills Beach Resort

    BeacheGomoa Fettehnear Accra

    Travel to Gomoa Fetteh on the road towards Cape Coast. It is about an hour's drive from Accra.

  • Cape Coast beach

    BeacheCoastal Plainnear Cape Coast

    Visit the beach in Cape Coast to relax under the palm trees.

    • Stay hydrated in the hot coastal climate.
  • Densu Delta birdwatching

    WildlifeAccra areanear Accra

    Visit Densu Delta Protected Area. The boat crossing to Bojo Beach also passes across the delta.

  • Paga Crocodile Pond

    WildlifeNorthern Ghananear Paga

    Visit Paga Crocodile Pond in the northern town of Paga.

  • Wli Todzi rainforest scenery

    More to doRainforest near Wli Falls

    Visit the mountaintop village of Wli Todzi near Wli Falls for its scenery and ecotourism activities.

  • Akaa Falls

    More to doKoforidua areanear Koforidua

    Visit Akaa Falls in the area around Koforidua.

  • Obuo Tabri Mountain scenery

    More to doKoforidua areanear Koforidua

    Visit Obuo Tabri Mountain in the Koforidua area for its scenery.

  • Upper Guinea rainforest birdwatching

    WildlifeUpper Guinea rainforests

    Look for forest birds in the Upper Guinea rainforests.

Airports, metros and trains in Ghana

Airports with scheduled flights

  • ACCKotoka International AirportAccraMain international airport
  • KMSPrempeh I International AirportKumasiMain international airport
  • TMLYakubu Tali International AirportTamaleMain international airport

Trains

Rail network
953 km

People and safety in Ghana

Religion

Most people are Christian. Mixed.

  • Christian71%
  • Muslim20%
  • Other5%
  • Folk religions3%
  • No religion1%

LGBT+ travellers

Same-sex relationships are illegal

  • The law allows up to 3 years in prison.
  • Some laws protect against discrimination.

Check your own government's travel advice before you go, and be careful with public displays of affection and dating apps.

Women travellers

Ranked #117 of 181 countries for women's safety, inclusion and justice.

62% of women say they feel safe walking alone at night where they live.

Who can visit without a visa

Travellers from 65 of 198 countries can visit Ghana easily: no visa, a visa at the airport, or a short online form.

  • Visa not required40
  • Visa on arrival24
  • eTA required1
  • eVisa25
  • Visa required108

Who can visit easily, by part of the world

For each part of the world: how many countries' travellers can come easily. Easy means no visa, a visa at the airport, or a short online form.

  • Africa53 of 53 countries
  • Americas9 of 35 countries
  • Asia3 of 50 countries
  • Europe0 of 46 countries
  • Oceania0 of 14 countries

Questions

Is Ghana suitable for a first visit to West Africa?

The source describes it as a welcoming choice because of its infrastructure, political stability and widespread English.

What is the weather like?

Ghana is hot and humid, with average temperatures around 30°C by day and 24°C at night. Rainy months vary by region, and the Harmattan brings dry, dusty air from December to March.

Where do international flights arrive?

They arrive at Kotoka International Airport in Accra. Taxis and airport shuttles are available.

Can I get around by bus?

Yes, several companies run intercity buses. Delays are common with some operators, and private intercity buses do not serve rural areas.

What money should I bring?

Euros, pounds sterling and US dollars are useful for exchanging into Ghana cedis. US dollar notes should be from the 2009 series or later.

Will I be able to communicate in English?

English is the official language and is widely spoken. The source says English speakers should be able to communicate their needs throughout the country.

Can I drink tap water?

Tap water is generally not considered safe to drink. Choose sealed bottled water or water that has been boiled or filtered.

Do I need to greet people before asking for help?

Yes, greetings are very important. Start with good morning or good afternoon, and ask how the person is doing.

Can I easily use a local phone card?

Registration may require a Ghana-issued identity card, and the source does not confirm that foreign passport registration is available. You may need a roaming plan from your existing provider.

What electricity supply does Ghana use?

Ghana uses 230 volts at 50 hertz, with British-style plugs and sockets.

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