
Eastern Africa
KenyaTravel guide
- Nairobi
- Mombasa
- Kisumu
- Lamu
- Lodwar
- Malindi
Kenya is in East Africa. It is known for wildlife safaris, sandy beaches, Swahili heritage and the Rift Valley. Nairobi is the capital.
Why go
See lions, elephants, giraffes, zebras and wildebeest in wildlife reserves.
Visit coastal beaches, including Diani, and the towns of Lamu and Malindi.
Explore the Rift Valley and lakes such as Naivasha, Turkana and Victoria.
Learn about Kenya's heritage at the Nairobi National Museum.
Watch the wildebeest migration in the Maasai Mara, especially in August and September.
Best time to go: Wildlife viewing is best from mid-June to October and late December to mid-March, during the dry seasons. Long rains fall from April to June, and short rains from October to December.
Getting there
By air
- Jomo Kenyatta International Airport in Nairobi is the main arrival airport for visitors.
- Moi International Airport is in Mombasa. Many visitors on charter holidays fly directly to Mombasa or Malindi.
- Kenya Airways has regional and international connections, plus onward flights to Kenyan destinations.
By land
- Road crossings include Moyale from Ethiopia, Busia or Malaba from Uganda, and Namanga or Lungalunga from Tanzania.
- Regular buses link Nairobi with Arusha and Kampala, Mombasa with Dar es Salaam, and Kisumu with Kampala.
- Other listed bus routes connect Nairobi with Kigali, Jinja, Moshi, Mwanza and Addis Ababa.
By sea
- Boat arrivals are limited to the coast, including cruises from Zanzibar to Mombasa.
Customs
- Bringing plastic bags into Kenya is forbidden, including bags carried by tourists. Hand in any plastic bags in your luggage on arrival; penalties can include severe fines or imprisonment.
Getting around
Domestic flights
Flights from Nairobi serve coastal towns, regional cities and wildlife reserves. Some leave from Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, while others use Wilson Airport. Allow at least two hours to reach Jomo Kenyatta International Airport from Nairobi because of traffic and security checks. Kenya Airways lists check-in times of 45 minutes before domestic departures and two hours before international departures. Listen carefully to airport announcements, as passengers for different flights may share a waiting area. Kenya Airways flights can be delayed during July–September and December–February. Jambojet charges extra for checked luggage. Lock checked bags when using Airkenya, as items have been reported missing.
Buses
For long journeys, choose a comfortable, reputable coach company. Roads can be bumpy and dusty. Nairobi city buses serve many suburban routes, with listed fares of Ksh 50–100. BuuPass compares bus connections from different companies. Keep belongings secure on crowded buses. The airport bus to central Nairobi is a known target for pickpockets.
Trains
The Madaraka Express links Nairobi and Mombasa in about five hours. The source lists three trains each way daily. The newer standard-gauge railway also links Nairobi and Naivasha. Allow up to an hour to reach the stations from central Nairobi or Mombasa. Slower trains on the older railway serve Nanyuki and Kisumu. These routes are scenic and have cheaper fares.
Driving
Drive on the left. Major roads are usually paved, but their condition varies. Smaller roads outside towns are often unpaved. Northern roads face risks of armed robbery and kidnapping. Check security advice before travelling.
What to see and do
Wildlife reserves
Kenya's reserves are known for lions, giraffes, elephants, zebras, wildebeest and buffaloes.
Maasai Mara migration
Large herds of wildebeest migrate between the Maasai Mara and Serengeti. Book months ahead because demand is high and lodging is limited.
Coast and beaches
Diani Beach is a major beach destination. Lamu and Malindi are other coastal towns worth visiting.
Rift Valley and lakes
The Rift Valley offers dramatic scenery, while Lake Naivasha is known for bird life.
Lake Turkana region
Important prehistoric fossils have been found here. The source advises visitors to travel to Lake Turkana by air because of northern security risks.
Nairobi National Museum
Learn about Kenya's heritage and recent history.
Food and drink
Ugali
A thick maize porridge, commonly served with meat, vegetables, beans or sauce.
Nyama choma
Grilled meat; beef, chicken and goat are commonly eaten.
Chapati and sukuma wiki
Chapati is flatbread. Sukuma wiki is a leafy green vegetable.
Samosas
Deep-fried pastries filled with meat or vegetables.
Biryani
Spiced rice with meat or vegetables, reflecting Indian influences in Kenyan cooking.
Seafood
Coastal dishes include grilled fish, prawn curry and seafood stew.
Money
Kenyan shilling (KES), usually written Ksh.
- Cash and M-Pesa, a phone payment service, are more commonly used than debit or credit cards.
- M-Pesa cash deposits and withdrawals are available at various shops.
- Cash machines are available before and after immigration at Nairobi's main airport.
- Cash machine fees vary by bank. The source lists charges of Ksh 400–700 at some banks and no withdrawal fee at others in January 2024.
Typical costs
- Nairobi city bus: Ksh 50–100.
- Nairobi–Mombasa train: Ksh 1,500 in second class or Ksh 4,500 in first class, according to the source's 2024 fares.
- Basic guest house with a shared bathroom: from Ksh 500 per night.
- Private guest-house room: about Ksh 500–1,000 per night.
- Homestay: about US$20 per night, usually including meals.
- Golf: US$15–60 per round, plus US$5–7 for a caddy for 18 holes.
Language
- English and Swahili are the official languages.
- Many people in towns speak some English, though ability varies.
- Swahili is widely used between different ethnic groups. Using it is appreciated and can be especially helpful in rural areas.
Staying safe
- Do not travel within 110 kilometres of the Somalia border. The source warns of kidnapping, cross-border violence and banditry.
- Avoid northern border areas where possible because of armed robbery and kidnapping. The source advises flying to Lake Turkana and Lamu.
- Stay alert in Nairobi, where muggings can happen even on crowded streets during daylight. Avoid walking after dark.
- Keep phones, cameras and other valuables out of sight. Guard against pickpockets on crowded buses.
Local customs
Do
- Ask permission before photographing people, and get consent before publishing their pictures.
- Dress modestly in coastal Muslim areas and rural communities. Keep beachwear for the beach.
- Bring a small gift if invited to someone's home.
- Accept offered food, tea, chapati or mandazi, as rejecting food is considered disrespectful.
- Listen carefully when discussing colonial history, which can be sensitive.
- Bargain politely without pushing too hard.
Don't
- Do not eat or drink in public during daylight in Ramadan, the Muslim month of fasting.
- Do not bathe nude or topless in public.
- Avoid kissing or other intimate behaviour in public.
- Do not photograph military sites or public facilities such as police stations, banks and ferries where photography is prohibited.
Staying healthy
- Prevent mosquito bites with long sleeves, long trousers and effective insect repellent. Mosquitoes carry malaria, dengue fever and yellow fever.
- Ask a doctor about malaria prevention before visiting rural areas. The source states that Nairobi is outside the malaria zone.
- A yellow fever vaccination certificate is typically required when arriving from or travelling to other African countries.
- Seek medical care immediately for fever, joint aches, vomiting or other flu-like symptoms. Malaria can become serious quickly.
Where to stay
- Nairobi has accommodation from backpacker hostels to five-star hotels.
- Guest houses can offer good value in small towns and villages. The cheapest rooms may have shared bathrooms, poor cleanliness or insects.
- Private rooms at bars and clubs can be inexpensive, but expect noise.
- Homestays offer a chance to experience Kenyan home life. Meals are usually included, and some hosts include laundry.
East Africa Tourist Visa
One visa, 3 countries
One tourist visa covers Kenya, Uganda and Rwanda, and you can move between them as often as you like. With it, a trip to Kenya can also take in:
- Valid 90 days
- Multiple entries between the three
- Apply through the country you enter first
Whether you need the visa at all depends on your passport. Check the entry rules for Kenya before you plan the route.
Trips to Kenya
Day-by-day itineraries by snuck, shaped around you.
Outdoor adventures in Kenya
Kenya offers wildlife safaris, high mountain treks, forest trails and Indian Ocean beaches. You can combine parks with time on the coast, where diving, snorkelling and sailing are available. For a first safari, a reputable tour company can help with transport, guides and park entry.
Maasai Mara National Reserve
Safari
Mid-June–October and late December–mid-March for wildlife viewing. July–September offers the best chances of seeing the migration, depending on rainfall.Book a safari through a tour operator. Starting from Nairobi can cost less than flying from the coast. Arrange a local guide through your accommodation.
- Permit: Arrange and pay for park entry ahead of time. Most gates require advance payment or payment through M-Pesa.
- A local guide is essential.
- Stay in the vehicle unless your guide allows you to leave it.
Nairobi National Park
SafariNairobinear Nairobi
Mid-June–October and late December–mid-March.Book a game drive with a Nairobi tour operator. The park is less than 20 minutes' drive from the central business district.
- Permit: Arrange park entry ahead of time. Most gates require advance payment or payment through M-Pesa.
- Stay in the vehicle unless you are allowed to leave it.
Amboseli National Park
SafariSouth of Nairobi
Mid-June–October and late December–mid-March.Join an organised safari. Road trips from the coast can include Amboseli alongside Tsavo and other parks.
- Permit: Arrange park entry ahead of time. Most gates require advance payment or payment through M-Pesa.
- Stay in the vehicle unless you are allowed to leave it.
- Bring sun protection, mosquito repellent and a windbreaker.
Tsavo East National Park
SafariSouth of Nairobi
Mid-June–October and late December–mid-March.Book a safari vehicle through a reputable company in Mombasa or near the beach hotels. This is a practical park to combine with a coastal holiday.
- Permit: Arrange park entry ahead of time. Most gates require advance payment or payment through M-Pesa.
- Choose a reputable safari company.
- Stay in the vehicle unless you are allowed to leave it.
Tsavo West National Park
SafariSouth of Nairobi
Mid-June–October and late December–mid-March.Arrange a safari with a reputable coastal tour company. The Tsavo parks can be reached by safari vehicle from Mombasa.
- Permit: Arrange park entry ahead of time. Most gates require advance payment or payment through M-Pesa.
- Choose a reputable safari company.
- Stay in the vehicle unless you are allowed to leave it.
Mount Kenya National Park
TrekNorth of Nairobi
HardVisit the national park for high mountain trekking. No named route or trekking arrangements are given.
- Permit: Arrange national park entry ahead of time.
Lake Nakuru National Park
WildlifeNorth of Nairobi
Mid-June–October and late December–mid-March for game viewing.Join a safari or drive yourself if you have suitable experience. A guide is not required, but a local guide can help you find animals.
- Permit: Arrange park entry ahead of time. Most gates require advance payment or payment through M-Pesa.
- Self-driving calls for experience with African roads and large wild animals.
- Phone maps are of little use inside the parks.
Aberdare National Park
SafariNorth of Nairobi
Mid-June–October and late December–mid-March for game viewing.Visit on a safari arranged through a tour operator.
- Permit: Arrange park entry ahead of time.
Kakamega Rainforest
WildlifeNorth of Nairobi
Visit the rainforest for monkey and bird watching. Transport and guiding arrangements are not specified.
South Coast beaches: Diani, Tiwi, Galu, Gazi, Msambweni and Mwazaro
BeacheCoastal Kenya, south of Mombasanear Mombasa
Book a South Coast beach holiday through a travel company. For Tiwi, take a taxi from central Mombasa via the Likoni ferry.
- Cost: Taxi from central Mombasa to Tiwi: about US$50.
Mombasa Marine National Park and Marine Reserve
Scuba divingCoastal Kenyanear Mombasa
Book a dive trip or lessons with Bouccaner Diving at Voyager Beach Resort or Peponi Divers at Bahari Beach Hotel, both on Mount Kenya Road in Nyali.
Mombasa North Coast beaches
BeacheCoastal Kenyanear Mombasa
Visit Nyali, Bamburi, Shanzu, Mtwapa or Kikambala north of Mombasa. Guided beach walks are available, and bikes can be rented at Jomo Kenyatta Public Beach in Bamburi.
- Water quality at Nyali is poor because of its closeness to the town and lack of functioning wastewater treatment.
Karura Forest
CyclingNairobinear Nairobi
Weekdays are usually quieter than weekends.Explore the marked forest trails on foot or rent a bicycle. The forest is close to the city.
- Cost: Non-resident entry: Ksh 600. Bicycle rental: Ksh 500 for 2 hours.
- The trails are described as safe and well marked.
Bamburi Forest Trails and Butterfly Park
CyclingBamburi, Coastal Kenyanear Mombasa
Go to the trails on Malindi Road in Bamburi. Explore on foot or by bicycle, following the coloured wooden arrows.
- Cost: Ksh 200.
Nguuni Nature Sanctuary
WildlifeNguu Tatu Hills, Coastal Kenyanear Mombasa
A hired safari vehicle trip lasts 1–1.5 hours.From Mombasa, take a shared minibus towards Kiembeni, get off at Turkey Bazer and walk along Mwakirunge Road to the entrance sign. Walk in the sanctuary or hire a safari vehicle.
- Cost: Entry: Ksh 500. Safari vehicle hire: Ksh 1,200 for 1–1.5 hours. Transport from the entrance to the picnic area: Ksh 250.
Watamu beaches: Jacaranda, Garoda and Turtle Bay
BeacheCoastal Kenyanear Malindi
Visit the fishing village of Watamu to explore its beaches, coves, rocks and mudflats on foot.
Jacaranda Beach snorkelling
SnorkellingWatamu, Coastal Kenyanear Malindi
Join a boat tour from Watamu Beach. The recommended snorkelling area is near Jacaranda Beach Resort.
Malindi scuba diving
Scuba divingCoastal Kenyanear Malindi
Ask at beach hotels to rent equipment, join a diving group or take lessons.
Malindi surfing and kitesurfing
SurfingCoastal Kenyanear Malindi
May–October for surfing.Surf north of Eden Roc. For kitesurfing lessons, use the school north of town.
Lamu archipelago dhow sailing
SailingLamu archipelagonear Lamu
Sunset trips are available for 2 hours.Arrange a dhow trip from Lamu. A dhow is a traditional sailing boat. Trips can visit Manda Island, Matondoni or islands farther away.
- Cost: From Ksh 3,000 for a 2-hour sunset trip without food.
- Travel to Lamu by air because of road security risks in the region.
Lamu kitesurfing and windsurfing
SurfingLamunear Lamu
For windsurfing lessons, find the instructor at the shed next to Peponi Hotel. Lamu is also a kitesurfing destination, and water sports are offered at Manda Beach.
- Cost: Windsurfing instruction: Ksh 3,000 per hour.
- Travel to Lamu by air because of road security risks in the region.
Lamu and Manda island beaches
BeacheLamu archipelagonear Lamu
Walk about 1.5 miles from Lamu town to Shela Beach. Reach Kipungani by boat or a longer beach walk. Manda Island has Manda Beach, Takwa Beach and Manda Bay, but its beaches are harder to reach.
- Travel to Lamu by air because of road security risks in the region.
Manda Toto
SnorkellingLamu archipelagonear Lamu
About 30 minutes by private boat from Lamu.Charter a private boat from Lamu to this small, uninhabited island. At low tide, it is possible to cross from Manda Island.
- Bring your own food and water.
- Travel to Lamu by air because of road security risks in the region.
Dunga Papyrus Boardwalk
WildlifeLake Victorianear Kisumu
Visit the papyrus boardwalk in Dunga from Kisumu for bird watching.
Lake Baringo hot springs
Hot springRift Valley
Visit the hot springs at Lake Baringo. Access and tour arrangements are not specified.
- The springs are described as boiling hot.
Airports, metros and trains in Kenya
Airports with scheduled flights
- EDLEldoret International AirportEldoretMain international airport
- NBOJomo Kenyatta International AirportNairobiMain international airport
- KISKisumu International AirportKisumuMain international airport
- MBAMoi International AirportMombasaMain international airport
Trains
- Rail network
- 2,541 km
People and safety in Kenya
Religion
Most people are Christian. Mostly one faith.
- Christian86%
- Muslim11%
- No religion2%
- Other1%
- Folk religions<1%
LGBT+ travellers
Same-sex relationships are illegal
- The law allows up to 14 years in prison.
- Some laws protect against discrimination.
Check your own government's travel advice before you go, and be careful with public displays of affection and dating apps.
Women travellers
Ranked #152 of 181 countries for women's safety, inclusion and justice.
40% of women say they feel safe walking alone at night where they live.
Who can visit without a visa
Travellers from 196 of 198 countries can visit Kenya easily: no visa, a visa at the airport, or a short online form.
- Visa not required41
- eTA required155
- eVisa2
Who can visit easily, by part of the world
For each part of the world: how many countries' travellers can come easily. Easy means no visa, a visa at the airport, or a short online form.
- Africa53 of 53 countries
- Asia50 of 50 countries
- Europe46 of 46 countries
- Oceania14 of 14 countries
- Americas33 of 35 countries
Questions
When is the best time to see wildlife?
The dry seasons, from mid-June to October and late December to mid-March, are best for wildlife viewing.
Will I be able to speak English?
English is an official language and is widely understood in towns, though ability varies. Some Swahili is useful in rural areas.
Should I carry cash?
Cash and M-Pesa phone payments are more common than debit or credit cards. Cash machines are available, including at Nairobi's main airport.
Can I travel between Nairobi and Mombasa by train?
Yes. The Madaraka Express takes about five hours, but reaching the station from either city centre can take up to an hour.
Can I drink tap water?
The source advises treating all water, including in Nairobi. Bottled drinking water is available throughout the country.
What clothes should I pack?
Light clothes suit much of the year, but nights and early mornings can be cool. Nairobi can also be cold during the day from June to August.
Is it safe to walk around Nairobi?
Stay alert even during daylight, as muggings occur on crowded streets. Avoid walking after dark and keep valuables out of sight.
Can I find inexpensive accommodation?
Guest houses in small towns and villages can cost less than Ksh 1,000 per night. The cheapest rooms may have shared bathrooms or poor cleanliness.
Can I take photos of local people?
Ask permission first and get consent before publishing their pictures. Photography of military sites and many public facilities is prohibited.
Can I bring plastic shopping bags?
No. Bringing plastic bags into Kenya is forbidden, including for tourists, and penalties can include severe fines or imprisonment.
Reviewed by @snuck