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Eastern Africa

EthiopiaTravel guide

Explore Ethiopia visa rulesCommon scams in Ethiopia

Ethiopia offers historic churches, castles, lakes and wildlife. Security is unstable, especially in the north, west and along international borders, with armed conflict, air strikes, terrorism, violent crime and kidnapping risks.

Why go

  1. Rock-cut churches in Lalibela.

  2. Huge stone monuments in Axum and castles in Gondar.

  3. Historic churches and mosques in Harar.

  4. Rift Valley lakes and national parks.

  5. Traditional coffee ceremonies and live azmari music.

Best time to go: October to February is the dry, sunniest season in Addis Ababa. Many highland tourist sites have a similar climate, while lower areas can be much hotter.

Getting there

By air

  • Bole International Airport in Addis Ababa is the main arrival airport and the hub for Ethiopian Airlines.
  • Terminal 2 handles international flights, while Terminal 1 serves domestic and some regional flights.
  • Other international airports are in Dire Dawa, Mekele and Bahir Dar.

By land

  • A passenger train links Addis Ababa and Djibouti City in roughly 12 hours.
  • Abyssinia Luxury Coach runs a bus route between Nairobi and Addis Ababa.
  • Road crossings include Metema from Sudan and Moyale from Kenya; check road conditions and travel advisories before leaving.

Getting around

  • Domestic flights

    Ethiopian Airlines serves many domestic destinations. A nearby airline ticket office may be easier to use than its app. Reconfirm your ticket at least a day before departure and arrive on time, as flights are often overbooked. Flights are frequently cancelled or rescheduled. Leave extra time before an international connection. Travellers with proof of an international Ethiopian Airlines ticket or reservation can qualify for discounted domestic fares.

  • Buses and minibuses

    Basic buses are cheap but slow; luxury buses link major cities and offer numbered seats and luggage compartments. Most long-distance buses leave around 06:00, and stations usually open around 05:00. Arrive early even if you have a ticket. You can often buy tickets at the station the day before travel. Ask for help finding the correct window if you cannot read Amharic. Short-distance buses generally leave when full. Most buses stop before sundown, though some minibuses run later. Large bags usually go on the roof of basic buses. People who help with luggage expect a small tip. Minibus and basic bus travel can be risky because of dangerous driving. Vehicles can also be dusty, hot and stuffy.

  • Car with a driver or self-drive

    Most rental cars come with an Ethiopian driver. A few companies offer self-drive cars, with collection and return in Addis Ababa. A car with a driver is usually no more expensive than self-drive. Rental vehicles have manual gears and may be old. Check the driver's tourism licence, insurance and knowledge of your route before agreeing to a trip. Some southern routes and parks require a letter from the tour company. Authorities may record passenger names and passport numbers. Check that the fuel pump reads zero before filling the tank.

  • Trains

    Addis Ababa has a light railway with two routes through its central area. The Addis Ababa–Djibouti railway carries domestic and international passengers as well as freight. The new railway does not use the historic station in central Addis Ababa.

What to see and do

  • Lalibela

    See churches cut into rock.

  • Axum

    See huge stone monuments called obelisks.

  • Gondar

    Visit its castles and historic religious sites.

  • Harar

    Explore historic mosques and cultural heritage.

  • Danakil Depression and Erta Ale

    See volcanic landscapes.

  • Wonchi, Langano and Tana

    Visit lakes, including Wonchi's crater lake.

Food and drink

  • Injera and wat

    Injera is a tangy, spongy bread made from teff grain, served with stews called wat. Common versions use chicken, lamb, fish or legumes.

  • Shiro wat

    This bean stew is served with injera and is a vegetarian option. It is common on religious fasting days.

  • Firfir

    Fried, shredded injera can come with meat, vegetables or neither.

  • Tibs

    Beef or lamb is fried in spiced butter. Styles range from meat in a spicy sauce to a more deeply fried version.

  • Kitfo

    Minced meat is seasoned with chilli and served raw, lightly cooked or fully cooked, often with cheese and spinach. Raw kitfo carries a risk of parasites.

  • Spaghetti, pizza and burgers

    These are widely available, though their style may differ from what visitors expect.

Money

Ethiopian birr (ETB), also written Br; one birr equals 100 santim.

  • Cash machines are available in most towns, including smaller ones, but they are not always reliable. Have another way to get cash.
  • Dashen Bank, Commercial Bank of Ethiopia and Awash Bank are good places to try for machines accepting Visa, MasterCard and Chinese bank cards.
  • Do not expect foreign Cirrus or Plus cards to work.
  • Card payments are becoming more common in Addis Ababa but remain rare elsewhere.

Tipping: Tipping is common in hotels, restaurants and bars, and is expected by parking attendants and luggage helpers. In some restaurants, dancers also expect tips.

Typical costs

  • The source lists budget double rooms at 250–1,000 birr per night.
  • For 2020, the source gives an average of 3,000 birr per night for a five-star hotel in several major cities.
  • For 2020, the source estimates about 1,500 birr a day for accommodation, food and transport, rising to 2,500 birr in Addis Ababa and Dire Dawa.

Language

  • Amharic is an official language and a widely used common language.
  • Some English is spoken by many younger people in big cities.
  • Tigrinya is the main language in Tigray.
  • Oromo is widely spoken in the middle highlands.
  • Wolayttattuwa is widely spoken in the south.
  • Somali and Arabic are common in the Ogaden region.
  • French becomes more common towards the Djibouti border.
  • Some older people speak Italian, Russian or Spanish.

Staying safe

  • Security can worsen quickly and without warning, especially in the north, west and near international borders. Armed conflicts affect several regions.
  • Risks include air strikes, terrorism, violent crime and kidnapping. Protests, strikes and government responses can also escalate quickly.
  • Borders between ethnic regions can be high-risk areas because of ongoing conflicts.
  • Expect checkpoints and carry identity and travel documents. Respect roadblocks, stay calm and follow instructions.
3 common scams in Ethiopia, and how to avoid them

Local customs

Do

  • Remove your shoes before entering a home.
  • Use your right hand to eat injera, tearing off pieces to scoop up the stew.
  • Ask about customs, festivals and beliefs, and listen respectfully.
  • Treat people as equals; perceived disrespect can cause offence.
  • Foreign men are expected to keep a formal distance from women. The source describes asking a woman's male companion before speaking to her as local good manners.

Don't

  • Do not eat with your left hand, which is traditionally associated with personal hygiene.
  • Avoid criticising Ethiopian culture or Ethiopian Orthodox Christianity.
  • Avoid arguments about religion.
  • During Ramadan, avoid eating or drinking in public during daylight hours out of respect for people who are fasting.

Staying healthy

  • Do not drink tap water; use bottled water instead. Drink enough, especially in hot weather.
  • Avoid salads and uncooked food washed in tap water. Avoid ice unless it is made from distilled water or comes from a reputable hotel.
  • Speak to a doctor before travel about vaccinations and malaria prevention.
  • Malaria risk is low to absent in Addis Ababa and the highlands, but high around lakes and in the lowlands.

Phone and internet

  • Some guest houses offer internet access.
  • The Ethiopian Airlines app depends on reliable mobile or wireless internet coverage. A nearby ticket office may be easier to use.
  • Communications can be disrupted because of the security situation.

Where to stay

  • Tourist areas generally have more accommodation choices. Initial hotel prices for foreigners can be high, and bargaining is acceptable at many independent hotels.
  • Guest houses range from homes with spare rooms to small hotels. Bathrooms may be shared or private.
  • Some guest houses have generators, internet and satellite television. They are generally cheaper than major hotel brands.
  • Axum, Lalibela, Bahir Dar and Gondar offer hotels across different price levels.

Outdoor adventures in Ethiopia

Ethiopia offers mountain treks, Rift Valley birdwatching, river rafting and hot springs. Its parks, lakes and volcanic deserts give visitors very different landscapes to explore. Security is volatile, with armed conflict and kidnapping risks in several regions, especially in the north, west and border areas.

  • Simien Mountains trekking

    TrekNorthern Ethiopia

    Trek in Simien National Park. Access and booking details are not specified.

    • Allow a few days to get used to the thinner air at high elevations.
    • Northern Ethiopia has a volatile security situation.

  • Bale Mountains trekking

    Trek

    Trek in Bale Mountains National Park. Access and booking details are not specified.

    • Allow a few days to get used to the thinner air at high elevations.

  • Danakil Depression, Erta Ale and Dallol

    More to doEastern Ethiopia

    Visit the salt desert and its volcanic landscapes. Transport and tour arrangements are not specified.

    • Dallol has an average annual temperature of 34°C.
    • Drink enough water, especially in hot weather.

  • Lower Omo Valley safari

    SafariLower Omo Valley

    Take a safari through the Lower Omo Valley. Operators and departure towns are not specified.

  • Omo River white-water rafting

    RaftingOmo River

    Raft on the Omo River. Operators, launch points and booking details are not specified.

  • Rift Valley lakes birdwatching

    WildlifeSouthern Ethiopia

    Visit the Rift Valley lakes for birdwatching. They are a popular weekend getaway for Addis Ababa residents; transport details are not specified.

    • Malaria risk is high in lake regions and lowlands.

  • Lake Tana boat trips

    More to doLake Tananear Bahir Dar

    2–12 hours

    Book a boat trip through your hotel or a guide, or charter your own boat. Some trips visit the point where the Blue Nile leaves the lake.

    • Cost: A private half-day trip for two with a guide was quoted at about 1,500 birr in 2019.
    • Malaria risk is high in lake regions.

  • Blue Nile Falls walk

    HikeTis Abaynear Bahir Dar

    20-minute walk from Tis Abay; allow 1–1.5 hours each way for the drive May–September, when the falls have more water

    Take a bus or car from Bahir Dar to Tis Abay, about 35 km away, then walk to the falls. Hotels can also arrange tours.

    • Permit: An entrance ticket and an official guide are required.
    • Cost: Entrance: 50 birr. Required guide: 200 birr as of July 2019.
    • Paths can have deep mud in the rainy season; bring suitable shoes.
    • The access road is very bumpy and dusty.

  • Gheralta Mountains church hikes

    HikeGheralta Mountainsnear Hawzien

    Hike to rock-hewn churches in the mountains near Hawzien. Individual routes and booking details are not specified.

  • Dodolla trekking

    TrekDodolla

    Go trekking in Dodolla. Routes, transport and booking details are not specified.

  • Entoto Mountain walks

    HikeNorthern edge of Addis Ababanear Addis Ababa

    Take a taxi or bus up to the mountain, or walk up. Walk between the churches and along paths with views of the city, forest and farmland.

    • The mountains rise to 3,300 m; allow time to get used to the thinner air.

  • Sodere hot springs

    Hot springnear Sodere

    Visit the spa town of Sodere for its hot springs. Transport and entry arrangements are not specified.

  • Awash National Park

    Wildlife

    Visit Awash National Park. Access, wildlife routes and booking details are not specified.

  • Abijatta Shalla Lakes National Park

    Wildlife

    Visit Abijatta Shalla Lakes National Park. Access and visitor arrangements are not specified.

    • Malaria risk is high in lake regions.

  • Mago National Park

    Wildlife

    Visit Mago National Park. Access, wildlife routes and booking details are not specified.

  • Omo National Park

    Wildlife

    Visit Omo National Park. Access, wildlife routes and booking details are not specified.

  • Menengesha National Park

    More to do

    Visit Menengesha National Park. Routes and transport details are not specified.

  • Debre Sina gelada watching

    WildlifeDebre Sinanear Addis Ababa

    Visit Debre Sina near Addis Ababa to see geladas. Transport and viewing arrangements are not specified.

  • Kechema mountain climb

    ClimbingMountains around Adamanear Adama

    Climb Kechema in the mountains surrounding Adama. The route and guide arrangements are not specified.

  • Bahir Dar cycling

    Cyclingnear Bahir Dar

    Rent a bicycle at Ghion Hotel in Bahir Dar.

  • Wonchi crater lake

    More to do

    Visit Wonchi crater lake. Transport and specific activity arrangements are not specified.

  • Lake Langano

    More to doRift Valley

    Visit Lake Langano. Transport and specific activity arrangements are not specified.

    • Malaria risk is high in lake regions.

  • Bahir Dar hornbill watching

    Wildlifenear Bahir Dar

    Every evening

    Look for the row of trees across the street from Ours Guesthouse/Cafe. Watch from an upstairs place serving food or drinks across the street.

Airports, metros and trains in Ethiopia

Airports with scheduled flights

  • DIRAba Tenna Dejazmach Yilma International AirportDire DawaMain international airport
  • ADDAddis Ababa Bole International AirportAddis AbabaMain international airport
  • JIJGerad Wilwal International AirportJijigaMain international airport
  • AWAHawassa International AirportHawassaMain international airport

Trains

Rail network
2,185 km
Electrified
1,401 km

People and safety in Ethiopia

Religion

Most people are Christian. Mixed.

  • Christian67%
  • Muslim31%
  • Folk religions3%

LGBT+ travellers

Same-sex relationships are illegal

  • The law allows up to 15 years in prison.

Check your own government's travel advice before you go, and be careful with public displays of affection and dating apps.

Women travellers

Ranked #156 of 181 countries for women's safety, inclusion and justice.

52% of women say they feel safe walking alone at night where they live.

Who can visit without a visa

Travellers from 117 of 198 countries can visit Ethiopia easily: no visa, a visa at the airport, or a short online form.

  • Visa not required2
  • Visa on arrival115
  • eVisa78
  • Visa required3

Who can visit easily, by part of the world

For each part of the world: how many countries' travellers can come easily. Easy means no visa, a visa at the airport, or a short online form.

  • Africa52 of 53 countries
  • Europe37 of 46 countries
  • Asia21 of 50 countries
  • Americas5 of 35 countries
  • Oceania2 of 14 countries

Questions

Is Ethiopia safe for a first visit?

Security is unstable, with armed conflict and other serious risks in several areas. The north, west, international borders and borders between ethnic regions need particular caution.

When is the driest time to visit Addis Ababa?

October to February is the dry season and the sunniest period. Heavy rains usually fall from June to September.

Can I pay by card?

Card payments are becoming more common in Addis Ababa but remain rare elsewhere. Cash machines can be unreliable, so have a backup plan for cash.

Can I buy transport tickets in person?

Yes, domestic flights can be booked through Ethiopian Airlines ticket offices. Bus tickets can often be bought at the station the day before travel.

Will I be able to use English?

Many younger people in big cities speak some English. Amharic is widely used, and local schoolchildren in rural areas may help translate for a small fee.

Can I drink tap water?

No; use bottled drinking water, which is available almost everywhere. Also avoid food washed in tap water and ice unless its water source is suitable.

Is vegetarian food available?

Yes; shiro wat is a bean stew served with injera. Vegetarian dishes are common on religious fasting days.

What should I know about guest houses?

They range from homes with bedrooms to small hotels, with shared or private bathrooms. Some have generators and internet, while basic accommodation may have limited electricity or hot water.

Should I bring warm clothes?

A light jacket is recommended for evenings in Addis Ababa, where overnight temperatures average 5–10°C. Many highland tourist sites have a similar climate.

Is tipping expected?

Tipping is common in hotels, restaurants and bars. Parking attendants and people helping with luggage also expect tips.

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