Central AsiaTurkmenistan is an isolated country in Central Asia. Its ancient cities were important stops on the Silk Road, a trade route linking East and West. The government tightly controls travel and public life, and tourists must join a guided tour.
Why go
Explore ancient trading cities such as Merv, Konye Urgench and Nissa.
See antique carpets and a huge handmade carpet at the Turkmen Carpet Museum in Ashgabat.
Visit the Karakum Desert and Yangykala Canyon.
Try horse riding, camel trekking or mountain hiking through a tour company.
Getting there
By air
- International flights are limited. Turkmenistan Airlines flies to Ashgabat from cities including Beijing, Dubai, Frankfurt and London.
- Other airlines include Turkish Airlines from Istanbul and flydubai from Dubai, plus some Russian and Chinese operators.
- Booking Turkmenistan Airlines flights can be difficult, even though it has an official website.
By land
- There are no official international passenger trains. The Moscow–Dushanbe train passes through Turkmenistan but is largely inaccessible to foreign visitors.
- Road routes connect Turkmenistan with Kazakhstan, Iran, Uzbekistan and Afghanistan. The source says the Kazakhstan crossing is closed until further notice.
- Border checks can take one or two hours or longer. Border points are described as open daily from 09:00 to 18:00.
By sea
- Cargo ships carry some passengers from Baku in Azerbaijan to Turkmenbashy across the Caspian Sea. These are not regular passenger ferries.
- Food and water are generally not provided. Sleeping areas and toilets may be basic.
Customs
- Import rules are very strict. Leave behind anything you are unsure will be accepted.
- Do not bring material that criticises the country or government. It can be confiscated, and you may be fined or jailed.
- Do not bring pornographic material. It can also lead to confiscation, fines or imprisonment.
Getting around
Domestic flights
Turkmenistan Airlines has daily flights between Ashgabat, Mary, Turkmenbashi, Dashoguz and some other destinations. Domestic flights are heavily subsidised. The source gives about US$5 for Ashgabat to Mary or Dashoguz. Photography may be restricted in and around airports.
Trains
Major cities have at least one daily train connection. Journeys are slow but inexpensive. Buy tickets in advance because trains fill quickly. Tickets cannot be bought online. Most older trains have been replaced with air-conditioned Chinese carriages. Main services have sleeping and dining cars.
Buses
Regular intercity buses connect most major cities and towns. You can usually buy tickets at the bus station or through a travel agency. Some bus companies also offer online booking.
Taxis
Informal taxis are common in Ashgabat and Turkmenbashi. People usually stop a car at the roadside. Agree on the destination and price before setting off. Knowing Russian helps when arranging the journey.
What to see and do
Turkmen Carpet Museum, Ashgabat
See antique carpets, designs no longer made and a handmade carpet measuring 14 by 21 metres.
Konye Urgench
An ancient city that was once an important centre of trade and culture.
Merv
Explore an ancient city with a history as a major trading and cultural centre.
Nissa
Visit another of the country's ancient centres of trade and culture.
Karakum Desert
A major natural attraction that can also be explored on horse or camel treks.
Yangykala Canyon
A natural attraction included in desert adventure tours.
Food and drink
Chorba
A meat and vegetable soup, often served at the start of a meal.
Plov
Rice cooked with mutton, onions, carrots and spices. It may also contain raisins, peas or quinces.
Manty
Steamed dumplings filled with lamb.
Ku'urma
Lamb cooked in its own fat.
Ichlekli
A pie filled with meat and onion.
Gutap
A pie with fillings such as meat, potatoes, spinach and pumpkin.
Money
Turkmenistan new manat (TMT), divided into 100 tenge.
- Bring US dollars, including plenty of US$1 notes for small payments.
- Hotels, some tourist sights and tour operators may ask for payment in dollars. Regulations limit dollar acceptance to international hotels and the airport.
- Exchange only the manat you expect to spend. You cannot exchange it outside Turkmenistan or change it back into foreign currency inside the country.
- Cards are accepted mainly at large international hotels and banks in bigger cities. Visa cards are the most useful.
Typical costs
- Basic double room: about US$30.
- More comfortable accommodation: around US$60; a comfortable hotel single room can cost US$100–200 per night.
- Street snack: US$1–3.
- Meal at a good restaurant in Ashgabat: about US$20.
- Tourism tax added to hotel bills: US$2 per day.
- First-class train sleeping accommodation: a few US dollars.
Language
- Turkmen is the official language.
- Russian is widely spoken.
- Uzbek is widely understood.
- Kazakh is understood to a more limited extent.
- English is not widely understood.
- byehz gah-zah
- Without gas; use it to ask for still water.
- gok chai
- Green tea.
Staying safe
- Do not criticise or show disrespect towards the government or country. Punishments can be extremely harsh.
- Expect close attention from the authorities. Be careful about what you say and do.
- Crime is described as uncommon because punishments are severe.
- Take care when crossing roads. Drivers often ignore traffic rules, and proper crossings are scarce.
Local customs
Do
- Ask permission before photographing or recording people.
- Speak carefully and avoid embarrassing people. Protecting a person's dignity is important in Turkmen culture.
- Respect local customs and behave politely.
Don't
- Do not criticise the government or country.
- Avoid public displays of affection, including holding hands and hugging.
- Avoid beckoning people directly, which can cause offence.
Staying healthy
- Bring the medicines you need for personal use. Supplies may be unavailable outside Ashgabat, and medical supplies do not meet American or European standards.
- Get travel insurance that covers hospital treatment and an emergency flight home.
- The source recommends vaccinations against diphtheria, tetanus, polio, and hepatitis A and B.
- It also recommends typhus vaccination for stays in poor hygiene conditions, and rabies vaccination for longer stays, frequent animal contact or limited access to treatment after a bite.
Phone and internet
- Communication is described as expensive and difficult.
Where to stay
- Affordable accommodation can be difficult to find. The source gives about US$30 for a basic double room.
- A comfortable hotel single room can cost US$100–200 per night.
- Ask your tour company about staying in a Turkmen yurt, a traditional tent with a design different from yurts in nearby countries.
Outdoor adventures in Turkmenistan
Turkmenistan offers desert journeys, horse and camel treks, mountain hikes and Caspian Sea beaches. You can also swim in a warm underground lake near Ashgabat. Tourists must travel on guided tours, and nature reserves need special permission arranged well in advance.
Darvaza flaming crater
More to doKarakum Desert
Include the crater near the former town of Darvaza in a guided tour.
Kow Ata underground lake
Hot springMountains outside Ashgabatnear Ashgabat
Year-round for warm waterVisit on a guided tour from Ashgabat. The lake is about an hour outside the city. Walk down steps into the cave to swim.
- The steps become increasingly slippery.
Karakum Desert off-road adventure and camel trek
TrekKarakum Desert and Eastern Karabogaz basinnear Ashgabat
14 daysStantours offers a guided off-road and camel tour starting with a drive from Ashgabat to Yangykala Canyon.
- Permit: Nature reserve visits require special permission. Ask a travel agent to arrange it well in advance.
Akhal Teke horse trek through the Karakum Desert
TrekNortheastern Karakum Desertnear Ashgabat
12 daysOrexca offers a guided horse-riding tour with a transfer from Ashgabat to Geokdepe Stud Farm.
Awaza beaches and swimming
BeacheBalkan Province, Caspian Seanear Turkmenbashi
Arrange a visit through your guided tour. Awaza is 8 km north of Turkmenbashi.
Köýtendag Nature Reserve hiking
HikeSoutheastern mountains, on the Uzbekistan border
Arrange a guided hiking visit through a travel agent, including the required permission.
- Permit: A special permit, meaning official permission to visit, is required. Apply through a travel agent well in advance.
Nokhur mountain hiking
HikeMountains around Nokhur
Ask your guided-tour organiser to include hiking in the mountains around Nokhur.
Köpet Dag Nature Reserve visit
More to doMountains near Ashgabatnear Ashgabat
Arrange a guided reserve visit through a travel agent.
- Permit: Special permission is required. Apply through a travel agent well in advance.
Syunt Hasarday Nature Reserve visit
More to doMountains south of the Ashgabat–Turkmenbashi road
Arrange a guided reserve visit through a travel agent.
- Permit: Special permission is required. Apply through a travel agent well in advance.
Esenguly Nature Reserve visit
More to doCaspian Sea, near the Iranian border
Arrange a guided reserve visit through a travel agent.
- Permit: Special permission is required. Apply through a travel agent well in advance.
Krasnovodsk Nature Reserve visit
More to doCaspian Sea, south of Turkmenbashinear Turkmenbashi
Arrange a guided reserve visit through a travel agent.
- Permit: Special permission is required. Apply through a travel agent well in advance.
Gaplangyr Nature Reserve visit
More to doKarakum Desert
Arrange a guided reserve visit through a travel agent.
- Permit: Special permission is required. Apply through a travel agent well in advance.
Quzilqum Nature Reserve visit
More to doAmu Darya River, on the Uzbekistan border
Arrange a guided reserve visit through a travel agent.
- Permit: Special permission is required. Apply through a travel agent well in advance.
Amu Darya Nature Reserve visit
More to doAmu Darya River, north of Turkmenabat, on the Uzbekistan bordernear Turkmenabat
Arrange a guided reserve visit through a travel agent.
- Permit: Special permission is required. Apply through a travel agent well in advance.
Repetek Nature Reserve visit
More to doDesert on the road between Mary and Turkmenabat
Arrange a guided reserve visit through a travel agent.
- Permit: Special permission is required. Apply through a travel agent well in advance.
Airports, metros and trains in Turkmenistan
Airports with scheduled flights
- ASBAshgabat International AirportAshgabatMain international airport
- TAZDashoguz International AirportDaşoguzMain international airport
- CRZTürkmenabat International AirportTürkmenabatMain international airport
Trains
- Rail network
- 5,080 km
People and safety in Turkmenistan
Religion
Most people are Muslim. Mostly one faith.
- Muslim93%
- Christian6%
- No religion<1%
LGBT+ travellers
Same-sex relationships are illegal
- The law allows up to 2 years in prison.
- Legal gender change is not recognised.
Check your own government's travel advice before you go, and be careful with public displays of affection and dating apps.
Women travellers
Ranked #74 of 181 countries for women's safety, inclusion and justice.
91% of women say they feel safe walking alone at night where they live.
Who can visit without a visa
Travellers from 0 of 198 countries can visit Turkmenistan easily: no visa, a visa at the airport, or a short online form.
- eVisa32
- Visa required166
Who can visit easily, by part of the world
For each part of the world: how many countries' travellers can come easily. Easy means no visa, a visa at the airport, or a short online form.
- Africa0 of 54 countries
- Asia0 of 49 countries
- Europe0 of 46 countries
- Americas0 of 35 countries
- Oceania0 of 14 countries
Questions
Can I pay by card?
Card acceptance is limited mainly to large international hotels and banks in bigger cities. Visa cards are the most useful, and you should bring US dollars.
Can I buy transport tickets without using the internet?
Bus tickets can usually be bought at the bus station or through a travel agency. Train tickets cannot be bought online and should be bought in advance because trains fill quickly.
Will people understand English?
English is not widely understood. Turkmen is the official language, and Russian is widely spoken.
Is tap water safe to drink?
Avoid tap water and drink bottled water. The source reports traces of toxic metals in the tap water.
What weather should I expect?
Summers are long and hot, with average temperatures of 26–34°C. Winter averages are -4°C to 4°C, but northern areas can fall to -20°C.
Can I take photographs of people?
Ask permission before photographing or recording anyone. Photography may also be restricted in and around airports.
What food can I try?
Try plov, a rice dish with mutton and vegetables, or manty, steamed lamb dumplings. Chorba soup and meat-filled pies are also local dishes.
Can I stay in a traditional yurt?
Yes, yurt stays are available. Ask your tour company to arrange one.
Can I travel freely around the country?
Tourists travel on guided tours. Some border areas, Dashoguz and parts near the Caspian Sea require government permission.
When are markets open?
Bazaars usually open daily from 08:00 to 20:00, but large markets may open only two or three mornings a week. Outside Ashgabat, bazaars close during daylight hours in the autumn cotton harvest.
Reviewed by @snuck