
Eastern Africa
ComorosTravel guide
- Moroni
- Domoni
- Fomboni
- Nioumachoua
- Moutsamoudou
Comoros is a three-island country in the Indian Ocean, between northern Mozambique and northern Madagascar. Its capital is Moroni, and tourist services and transport links are limited.
Why go
White sand beaches and volcanic scenery on Grande Comore.
Sea turtles, Livingstone bats and marine wildlife around Moheli.
Moroni's old mosque, narrow streets and Swahili-inspired buildings.
Hiking on Karthala volcano and among Anjouan's peaks and waterfalls.
Best time to go: May to November is cooler and relatively dry. December to April is hot and humid, with a risk of cyclones.
Getting there
By air
- Kenya Airways connects Nairobi with Moroni, and Ethiopian Airlines connects Addis Ababa via Dar es Salaam.
- Air Austral connects Paris and Marseille through Saint-Denis in Réunion.
- Inter Iles Air and Ewa Air fly from Mayotte. Air Tanzania flies from Dar es Salaam.
By sea
- Freighters take passengers from Zanzibar, Dar es Salaam and Madagascar. They usually cost less than flights, but take longer and have less reliable departure dates.
- To arrange passage, find the captain at the harbour and agree on a price.
Customs
- The source states that visitors need a visa, issued on arrival, costing 15,000 Comorian francs for a normal visa. Children under 10 are free.
- Bring the exact fee in cash because change may not be given. The source lists Comorian francs, US dollars, British pounds and euros as accepted currencies.
- Arrival paperwork asks for the address where you will stay. Customs officers may search your luggage.
Getting around
Plane
Int'Air Îles connects Moroni, Anjouan and Moheli. Its Moroni office is near Volo Volo Market.
Car or motorbike
Car hire on Grande Comore costs about 15,000–25,000 Comorian francs a day, depending on the vehicle. Moheli has no rental agencies, but your hotel may help you rent a car or motorbike from a local person. Each island has a main road around it, but some sections are in very poor condition. Traffic drives on the right. Petrol prices vary between islands, and petrol can be scarce on Moheli.
Boat
Small speedboats connect Chindini on Grande Comore with Hoani on Moheli. The trip takes about an hour. Boat and engine conditions vary, so travel only when the sea is calm and ask for a life jacket. Cargo vessels between the island capitals also accept passengers. Ask at the port or an agency, and allow up to 12 hours between Moroni and Moheli. Some speedboat passengers have been asked for a special police permit.
Hitchhiking
Hitchhiking is common among local people, especially on Moheli, where transport choices are limited. Travellers who look like tourists may be asked to pay for a lift.
What to see and do
Lac Salé
This salt lake sits beside a beach in northern Grande Comore. A trail climbs the rocks around it.
Moroni's old mosque and medina
Explore narrow, maze-like streets beside the old mosque and see Swahili-inspired buildings with covered arches.
Grande Comore's beaches
Maloudja beach in Mitsamiouli is especially popular. Other beach destinations include Ndroude, Bouni, Chomoni and Chindini.
Dragon's Tail
This mountain peninsula near Ivoini offers striking scenery and hiking.
Turtle Island
At suitable low tides, you can walk from Ndroude beach to this nearby island. Wear shoes because the volcanic rocks become very hot.
Palace of Kaviridjeo
These 16th-century ruins in Iconi were once home to the Sultan of Bambao. A modern mosque stands across the street.
Food and drink
Fish and seafood
Fresh catches are a major part of local food. Restaurant choices vary with what the fishermen bring back.
Mabawa
Grilled, marinated chicken wings, often served with breadfruit, cassava or green bananas and a spicy sauce called putu.
Madaba
Pounded and boiled cassava leaves served with rice. On Grande Comore it commonly contains fish; on Moheli it is made without fish.
Mkatre foutra
A small, round, savoury breakfast bread, usually sold for about 100 Comorian francs.
Sambusa
A local version of a samosa filled with shredded fish and spices.
Trama
Grilled corn, most widely available from January to April.
Money
Comorian franc (KMF), also written as CF.
- Bring euro notes, as cash machines can be broken and cannot be relied on.
- Most shops exchange euros, but even slightly torn banknotes may be refused.
- Prices quoted to tourists in euros commonly use a rate of 500 Comorian francs to €1.
- Banks may charge about 10% of the amount withdrawn as a transaction fee.
Typical costs
- Basic hotels or bungalows in Moroni may cost around €20 a night, or as little as €10 after hard bargaining.
- A meal at a cheap restaurant serving fried meat and starchy sides may cost up to 1,500 Comorian francs on Grande Comore or as little as 250 on Moheli.
- Street sellers' sweet bread generally costs 50–100 Comorian francs each.
- The source gives a basic food and lodging budget of about 6,000–10,000 Comorian francs per day.
- A 1.5-litre bottle of water costs about 400 Comorian francs.
Language
- Shikomori, or Comorian, is most people's first language, with a different dialect on each island.
- French is an official language and is widely used as a second language.
- Arabic is an official language, and some residents speak it.
- Fluent English speakers are very rare, so learning some French is useful.
- Kwesi
- A greeting used when addressing an elder.
- Salaama
- Your reply after an elder responds to your greeting with something like 'mbona, mkana baraka'.
Staying safe
- The source describes theft as unlikely, but roads often lack pavements and lighting. Take care when walking beside traffic, especially on weekend nights.
- Political tensions and clashes have occurred, particularly on Anjouan.
- Cyclones can occur during the rainy season, from December to April.
- Karthala on Grande Comore is an active volcano.
Local customs
Do
- Women should cover their shoulders, chest, knees, stomach and lower back. Foreign non-Muslim women are not expected to cover their heads.
- For swimming, shorts and a swimming shirt are more respectful than a bikini. Men should wear shorts that extend below the knee.
- Ask permission before photographing or filming people. Unauthorised photos can cause offence and sometimes violent reactions.
- During Ramadan, avoid eating or drinking in public during daylight hours. Most restaurants close until dusk.
Don't
- Do not show affection between men and women in public.
- Do not try to convert local people to another religion or give them Bibles; the source states that this is illegal.
- Do not drink alcohol in public.
- Do not hand out sweets or money to children in the street, as this can encourage children to demand gifts from visitors.
- Do not buy shells from beach vendors.
Staying healthy
- Malaria, including a form that affects the brain, is widespread. The source advises taking medicine to prevent malaria and sleeping under a mosquito net treated with permethrin insecticide.
- Get tested for malaria if you develop a fever, especially if it lasts or does not improve with paracetamol.
- Grande Comore and Anjouan have the best medical facilities, and most major towns offer malaria tests. Moheli has a hospital in Fomboni.
- The source gives conflicting advice about tap water safety. Bottled water is widely available.
Where to stay
- Basic hotels and bungalows are available in Moroni, the country's most expensive area for lodging.
- Some beach destinations have bungalows nearby.
- If a local person offers you a place to sleep, ask whether they expect payment for food or lodging. Some hosts welcome visitors as honoured guests and may find payment odd.
Outdoor adventures in Comoros
Comoros offers volcano treks, white sand beaches and wildlife watching across its islands. Moheli has the strongest choice of nature and water activities, including reef snorkelling, kayaking and boat trips. May to November is generally cooler and drier, but transport links and visitor facilities are limited.
Mount Karthala crater trek
TrekGrande Comore
About 8 hours one way; a long day hike or an overnight trip. May–November is generally cooler and drier.Hire a guide. You can make a long day hike or stay overnight at a basecamp of tin sheds.
- Cost: Guides are listed at €100; a long day hike is also listed at €60.
- Karthala is an active volcano.
- Cyclones are possible during December–April.
Livingstone bat watching
WildlifeMohelinear Nioumachoua
Includes a 1-hour hike. May–November is generally cooler and drier.Arrange a guided excursion through the Nioumachoua association or Laka Lodge. The Oualla 1 association provides the guide and collects the listed park and guide charge.
- Permit: Natural Park entry costs KMF 2,500 per person and lasts three months. Confirm how this relates to the excursion's listed park and guide charge.
- Cost: Association transport: KMF 7,500 for a motorbike with driver or KMF 12,500 for a car with driver. Oualla 1 park and guide charge: KMF 2,500 per person. Laka Lodge excursion: KMF 10,000 per person, minimum two people.
- A guide is needed because the bats are hard to find.
Itsamiya sea turtle nesting
WildlifeMohelinear Itsamiya
Visit Itsamiya on Moheli to watch sea turtles laying eggs. Booking and access details are not given.
Nioumachoua coral reefs and small islands
SnorkellingMoheli Marine Reserve, off Nioumachouanear Nioumachoua
May–November is generally cooler and drier.Explore the reefs around Nioumachoua and the small islands. Join an association boat trip to reach more isolated places. Laka Lodge rents masks and snorkels.
- Permit: Natural Park entry costs KMF 2,500 per person, paid once for three months.
- Cost: Mask and snorkel rental at Laka Lodge: KMF 2,500. Park entry and boat trips cost extra.
Nioumachoua humpback whale watching
WildlifeMohelinear Nioumachoua
Season listings differ: July–October and August–mid-November.Book a boat trip through the local association or Laka Lodge.
- Permit: Natural Park entry costs KMF 2,500 per person, paid once for three months.
- Cost: Local association: KMF 35,000 per boat, shared between passengers. Laka Lodge: KMF 20,000 per person, minimum two travellers. Park entry is listed separately.
Nioumachoua manta ray swimming
WildlifeMohelinear Nioumachoua
May–November is generally cooler and drier.Ask Laka Lodge to arrange a trip with guides who know where to look for manta rays.
Maloudja Beach
BeacheGrande Comorenear Mitsamiouli
May–November is generally cooler and drier.Visit the beach in Mitsamiouli. Transport details are not given.
Itsandra Beach and dolphin swimming
BeacheGrande Comorenear Moroni
May–November is generally cooler and drier.Take a short taxi ride north from Moroni to Itsandra. Dolphin swimming trips are offered here, though no operator is named.
- Cost: Dolphin swimming: KMF 10,000.
Dragon's Tail peninsula
HikeNortheastern Grande Comorenear Ivoini
May–November is generally cooler and drier.Head to the mountain peninsula just outside Ivoini village. Guide and trail access details are not given.
Turtle Island low-tide walk
HikeNortheastern Grande Comorenear Ndroude
A couple of hours on the island; walking time is not given. At low tide, depending on the time of the month.From the beach at Ndroude, walk to the island when low tide allows access.
- Walking access depends on the tide.
- Wear footwear: the volcanic rocks become very hot in the sun.
Lac Sale rock trail
HikeNorthern Grande Comore
May–November is generally cooler and drier.Follow the trail to the top of the rocks around the salt lake. Souvenir sellers beside the road can explain the lake and may take visitors down to it.
Fomboni to Nioumachoua trek
TrekMohelinear Fomboni
Hard Described as lengthy; no time is given. May–November is generally cooler and drier.Start in Fomboni and hike to Nioumachoua. Guide and transport arrangements are not given.
- The route is described as challenging and lengthy.
Chezani and northeastern mountain trails
HikeNortheastern Grande Comorenear Chezani
May–November is generally cooler and drier.Use Chezani or a neighbouring village as a starting point. Many small mountains have trails used by farmers to reach their fields.
Iconi mountain walk
HikeGrande Comorenear Iconi
Easy May–November is generally cooler and drier.Ask a local to show you the start of the path beside a small corner store in Iconi. Follow the simple path to the top.
Anjouan peaks and waterfalls
HikeAnjouan
May–November is generally cooler and drier.Anjouan has peaks and waterfalls to explore on foot. Specific routes, starting points and guide arrangements are not given.
Moheli Natural Park beach kayaking
KayakingMoheli Natural Parknear Nioumachoua
Kayaks are rented by the day. May–November is generally cooler and drier.Rent a kayak from Laka Lodge and explore the park's undeveloped beaches on your own.
- Permit: Natural Park entry costs KMF 2,500 per person, paid once for three months.
- Cost: Kayak rental: KMF 5,000 per day. Park entry is listed separately.
Moheli Natural Park island camping
More to doMoheli Natural Parknear Nioumachoua
Overnight, with pickup the next day. May–November is generally cooler and drier.Bring your own tent. Ask the local association to drop you on a small island by boat and collect you the next day. Laka Lodge rents snorkelling equipment.
- Permit: Natural Park entry costs KMF 2,500 per person, paid once for three months.
- Cost: Boat drop-off and next-day pickup: KMF 20,000 per boat. Park entry is listed separately.
Moheli Natural Park island boat trips
SailingMoheli Natural Parknear Nioumachoua
Half a day for a single-island visit; full-park tour duration is not given. May–November is generally cooler and drier.Arrange a trip through the local association or community bungalows. Choose a tour around the park or a return trip to one small island.
- Permit: Natural Park entry costs KMF 2,500 per person, paid once for three months.
- Cost: Full-park boat tour: KMF 30,000 per boat. Single-island visit: KMF 17,500 per boat. Park entry is listed separately.
Hahaya offshore dolphin watching
WildlifeGrande Comorenear Hahaya
Dolphins are listed offshore beyond Hahaya. No operator, departure point or booking method is given.
Ndroude Beach
BeacheNortheastern Grande Comorenear Ndroude
May–November is generally cooler and drier.Visit the coast at Ndroude. Transport details are not given.
Bouni Beach
BeacheNortheastern Grande Comorenear Bouni
May–November is generally cooler and drier.Visit the coast at Bouni. Transport details are not given.
Chomoni Beach
BeacheSoutheastern Grande Comorenear Chomoni
May–November is generally cooler and drier.Visit the coast at Chomoni. Transport details are not given.
Chindini Beach
BeacheSouthern Grande Comorenear Chindini
May–November is generally cooler and drier.Visit the coast at Chindini. Transport details are not given.
Moroni Public Beach
BeacheGrande Comorenear Moroni
After work or on Sundays for a lively local atmosphere.Find the public beach north of Moroni, behind the Blue Lagoon restaurant.
Nioumachoua forest and coastal wildlife walks
WildlifeMohelinear Nioumachoua
May–November is generally cooler and drier.Explore coastal forest and primary rainforest around Nioumachoua. Specific walking routes and booking arrangements are not given.
- Permit: For activities inside the Natural Park, entry costs KMF 2,500 per person and lasts three months.
- Cost: Natural Park entry, where applicable: KMF 2,500 per person.
Airports, metros and trains in Comoros
Airports with scheduled flights
- AJNOuani AirportOuani
- HAHPrince Said Ibrahim International AirportMoroni
People and safety in Comoros
Religion
Most people are Muslim. Mostly one faith.
- Muslim100%
LGBT+ travellers
Same-sex relationships are illegal
- The law allows up to 5 years in prison.
Check your own government's travel advice before you go, and be careful with public displays of affection and dating apps.
Women travellers
Ranked #135 of 181 countries for women's safety, inclusion and justice.
60% of women say they feel safe walking alone at night where they live.
Who can visit without a visa
Travellers from 198 of 198 countries can visit Comoros easily: no visa, a visa at the airport, or a short online form.
- Visa on arrival198
Who can visit easily, by part of the world
For each part of the world: how many countries' travellers can come easily. Easy means no visa, a visa at the airport, or a short online form.
- Africa53 of 53 countries
- Asia50 of 50 countries
- Europe46 of 46 countries
- Americas35 of 35 countries
- Oceania14 of 14 countries
Questions
When is the best time to visit Comoros?
May to November is cooler and relatively dry. December to April is hotter and more humid, with a risk of cyclones.
Can I manage with English?
Fluent English speakers are very rare. Learning some French will help, as many people speak it as a second language.
Should I bring cash?
Euro notes are useful because cash machines can be unreliable. Bring undamaged notes, as even slightly torn ones may be refused.
How can I travel between the islands?
Flights connect Moroni, Anjouan and Moheli, and some cargo boats accept passengers. Small speedboats connect Grande Comore and Moheli, but should only be used in calm seas.
Can I drink tap water?
The source gives conflicting advice about its safety. Bottled water is widely available.
What should I wear?
Women should cover their shoulders, chest, knees, stomach and lower back. Men should wear shorts below the knee, and shorts with a swimming shirt are respectful swimwear.
What local food can I try?
Try grilled chicken wings called mabawa, fish sambusa, or madaba made with cassava leaves. Madaba on Grande Comore commonly contains fish.
Where can I see wildlife?
Moheli has Livingstone bats and sea turtles laying eggs at Itsamiya. Dolphin trips operate from Grande Comore, while manta ray trips leave from Nioumachoua.
Can I take photos of local people?
Ask permission first. Taking photos without permission can cause serious offence and sometimes violent reactions.
What electricity supply does Comoros use?
The supply is 220 volts at 50 hertz. The source lists Europlug and Type E plugs.
Reviewed by @snuck