Eastern AfricaMadagascar is an island country in the Indian Ocean, off Africa’s east coast. Over 90% of its wildlife and 80% of its plants are found nowhere else.
Why go
See lemurs, rare chameleons and unusual plants in national parks and reserves.
Visit the huge trees at the Avenue of the Baobabs, especially at sunset.
Explore the sharp limestone formations at Tsingy de Bemaraha.
Go diving or snorkelling around Nosy Be.
Discover rainforest parks along the east coast.
Best time to go: May to October is the cooler, dry season. November to April is hot and rainy, with a risk of destructive cyclones, especially on the east coast.
Getting there
By air
- Most international flights arrive at Antananarivo or Nosy Be.
- Airlines offer routes through places including Paris, Johannesburg, Nairobi, Mauritius, Istanbul, Addis Ababa and Dubai.
- The source gives about 40,000 Ar for a taxi from the airport to Antananarivo, though drivers may ask for 60,000 Ar.
By sea
- The regular passenger boat service between Toamasina and Mauritius via Réunion has been suspended since December 2014.
- Entering as a passenger on a cargo ship is possible, but the source does not recommend it.
Getting around
Domestic flights
Madagascar Airlines serves 11 destinations and can be much faster than driving. Avoid tight connections and confirm your flight time the night before. For a cancellation, the airline provides a hotel and books the next available flight.
Car with a driver
Most roads are in poor condition, with potholes and muddy sections during the rainy season. Allow much more travel time than you expect. A vehicle with four-wheel drive can help on difficult roads, and sharing the hire cost can make it cheaper per person. Most rental companies include a driver and the driver’s accommodation, but check before booking. The driver may also help as a guide and translator.
Train
As of 2023, Madarail ran one service between Moramanga and Ambila Lemaitso on the east coast. The journey takes about nine hours. Breakdowns are frequent, and the line may close for several weeks.
Chartered boats
Yacht charters usually include a required guide who helps with food, local contacts, anchoring and protecting the boat. On some yacht trips, you cannot buy more supplies after departure. Plan food and water carefully. Crewed catamarans can come prepared with bedding, food and drinks. Check the boat’s condition and whether the crew speaks your language.
What to see and do
Tsingy de Bemaraha Strict Nature Reserve
See sharp limestone towers, forests, lemurs, birds and rare chameleons. Access is restricted, and the areas open to visitors can change.
Avenue of the Baobabs
This group of huge baobab trees is about 45 minutes north of Morondava. Some trees are over 800 years old, and sunset is especially good for photographs.
Merina Kingdom sites
Historic sites from the Merina Kingdom can be seen in different parts of Madagascar.
Rainforests of the Atsinanana
This World Heritage Site includes six national parks along the east coast. They include Marojejy, Masoala, Zahamena, Ranomafana, Andringitra and Andohahela.
Watch wildlife in parks and reserves
Wildlife is a main reason to visit Madagascar. Andasibe-Mantadia is a few hours from the capital on a paved road, while some other parks need days of driving and walking.
Dive or snorkel
Nosy Be offers excellent diving and snorkelling, with other options around Toliara. Equipment standards and underwater visibility vary, and the nearest specialist chamber for diving emergencies is across the Mozambique Channel.
Food and drink
Hotely meals
A hotely is a low-cost place to eat. Meals usually include rice and laoka, a side dish such as chicken, beans or pork.
Bananas and rice cakes
These are common street foods, available widely.
Homemade yoghurt
Some hotely meals can be followed by a small glass of homemade yoghurt.
Steak and chips
Steak-frites is available in restaurants in larger towns.
Bottled or treated water
Tap water is unsafe to drink. Plan water supplies carefully when visiting rural areas.
Ranon’apango
This is rice water made from water used to cook rice, so it has been boiled.
Money
Malagasy ariary (Ar; currency code MGA)
- Carry small notes for everyday payments. Sellers may struggle to give change for large notes.
- Cash machines are available in larger cities and towns, but connection problems and breakdowns are common. Carry emergency money in US dollars or euros.
- Cash machine withdrawals are usually limited to 400,000 Ar. Accepted cards vary by bank.
- The source lists fees of 8,000–10,200 Ar for overseas cards at BFV Société Générale and BOA-Bank of Africa cash machines.
Tipping: The source suggests 10% in restaurants and bars, about US$1 per bag for luggage help, and rounding up taxi fares. Its October 2018 guidance suggests US$5–10 a day for a private driver and US$7–10 a day for a park guide; hotel staff may also receive a few dollars or a contribution to a shared tip box.
Typical costs
- A simple hotely meal of rice, a side dish and rice water cost about 3,000 Ar in 2020. A small homemade yoghurt cost another 1,000 Ar.
- Backpacker hostel beds are listed from US$5.
- A vehicle with four-wheel drive was listed from at least US$70 per day in October 2014.
- The source lists Telma SIM cards at 500 Ar and Orange SIM cards at 2,000 Ar.
- A 12 GB mobile data plan lasting 30 days cost 75,000 Ar in December 2018.
Language
- Malagasy is spoken across the island, with regional differences.
- French is the second official language and is widely spoken in tourist areas.
- English is becoming more common, and many hotels and parks have some English-speaking staff.
- Salama
- Hello.
- Misoatra
- Thank you.
- Veloma
- Goodbye.
- Azafady
- Please, sorry or excuse me.
- Tompoko
- A respectful form of address like Sir or Ma’am; pronounced “toom-pook”.
- Tsy Misy
- I have nothing; pronounced “tsee-meesh”.
- Mpangalatra
- Thief; pronounced “pun-gul-ah-tra”.
Staying safe
- Do not walk around Antananarivo at night.
- Keep cameras and jewellery out of sight, and carry small banknotes.
- Watch your belongings on public transport and in busy markets, where pickpockets operate.
- If someone tries to rob you in a busy market, the source suggests shouting “Mpangalatra”, meaning “thief”, to alert people nearby.
Local customs
Do
- Ask about local fady, or taboos, when you arrive somewhere new. These may cover food, clothing colours or bathing in particular rivers and lakes.
- Use “tompoko” when addressing older people or officials.
- Ask permission before taking photographs, especially of tombs.
- If you have business in a remote village, first meet the village head.
- Treat people asking for help with respect.
Don't
- Do not break local fady, even if you do not understand them.
- Do not photograph a tomb without permission.
- Do not encourage begging; the source suggests offering useful food items instead of money.
Staying healthy
- Drink bottled or treated water, and avoid salads or dishes containing unpeeled fruit or vegetables. Chlorine tablets can help treat local water.
- Research malaria prevention before travelling. Use mosquito nets, repellent and long sleeves to reduce bites, especially after dusk.
- Avoid swimming in water that may contain human waste. Contaminated water can spread diseases, and leeches and tropical parasites are also a concern.
- Avoid stray dogs. Seek medical help promptly after a bite because rabies occurs in Madagascar.
Phone and internet
- Airtel, Orange and Telma offer prepaid mobile service. Bring an unlocked phone that can use another company’s SIM card.
- SIM cards can be bought at the airport, where staff can complete the activation process.
- SIM cards and top-up credit are also widely available in provincial towns and small rural villages.
- The source lists Telma SIM cards at 500 Ar and Orange SIM cards at 2,000 Ar.
Where to stay
- Accommodation ranges from shared dormitory rooms to luxury five-star resorts.
- Most places quote prices per room, but many luxury resorts quote per person. Check which price you are being given.
- More expensive accommodation usually provides mosquito nets and private bathrooms. At cheaper places, you may need your own net.
- Backpacker hostels exist in a few places, with prices listed from US$5.
Outdoor adventures in Madagascar
Madagascar is known for wildlife found nowhere else, rainforest parks and striking landscapes. Outdoor highlights include lemur watching, diving and snorkelling around Nosy Be, and wind sports near Diego. Travel to some parks can take days, and several popular areas carry safety warnings.
Andasibe-Mantadia National Park
WildlifeToamasina Provincenear Antananarivo
Travel a few hours from Antananarivo by paved road to the park area.
Nosy Be scuba diving
Scuba divingAntsiranana Province
Dive in the Nosy Be area. Operators and booking arrangements are not specified.
- The nearest pressure-treatment chamber for diving emergencies is across the Mozambique Channel.
- Underwater visibility can range from over 30 metres to zero, depending on the season and river runoff.
Nosy Be snorkelling
SnorkellingAntsiranana Province
Snorkel in the Nosy Be area. Specific entry points and tour arrangements are not specified.
- Visibility varies with the season and river runoff.
- Polluted swimming water can carry diseases.
Tsingy de Bemaraha Reserve
WildlifeMahajanga Provincenear Morondava
The reserve is approximately 180 km north of Morondava. Access is limited to areas open to visitors.
- Permit: Access is restricted, and the areas open to visitors change. Specific permission requirements are not stated.
- The limestone formations are fragile and razor-sharp.
- Visitor access restrictions change over time.
Avenue of the Baobabs nature photography
More to doMenabe Regionnear Morondava
SunsetTravel about 45 minutes north of Morondava on the west coast.
Ranomafana National Park rainforest visit
WildlifeFianarantsoa Province
The province is relatively accessible via RN7. Specific park access arrangements are not specified.
- RN7 is listed among roads to avoid in the country’s safety advice.
Masoala National Park rainforest visit
WildlifeAntsiranana Province
Specific park access arrangements are not specified.
Andringitra National Park rainforest visit
WildlifeFianarantsoa Province
The province is relatively accessible via RN7. Specific park access arrangements are not specified.
- RN7 is listed among roads to avoid in the country’s safety advice.
Marojejy National Park rainforest visit
WildlifeEastern Madagascar
Specific park access arrangements are not specified.
Zahamena National Park rainforest visit
WildlifeEastern Madagascar
Specific park access arrangements are not specified.
Andohahela National Park rainforest visit
WildlifeEastern Madagascar
Specific park access arrangements are not specified.
Nosy Be beaches
BeacheAntsiranana Province
Visit Nosy Be and its surrounding islands. Transport arrangements are not specified.
- Nosy Be is listed among areas to avoid in the country’s safety advice.
- Polluted swimming water can carry diseases.
Toliara scuba diving
Scuba divingToliara Provincenear Toliara
Diving is possible in the Toliara area. Operators and dive sites are not specified.
- Scuba equipment outside Nosy Be may fall below expected standards.
- The nearest pressure-treatment chamber for diving emergencies is across the Mozambique Channel.
Toliara snorkelling
SnorkellingToliara Provincenear Toliara
Snorkelling is possible in the Toliara area. Specific entry points and tour arrangements are not specified.
- Polluted swimming water can carry diseases.
- Underwater visibility varies with river runoff.
Kitesurfing near Diego
SurfingFar northern Madagascarnear Diego
April to NovemberHead to the area near Diego in the far north. Launch sites, schools and operators are not specified.
- The area has a constant strong wind of around 30 knots during the stated season.
Windsurfing near Diego
SurfingFar northern Madagascarnear Diego
April to NovemberHead to the area near Diego in the far north. Launch sites, schools and operators are not specified.
- The area has a constant strong wind of around 30 knots during the stated season.
Airports, metros and trains in Madagascar
Airports with scheduled flights
- MJNAmborovy AirportMahajangaMain international airport
- TNRIvato International AirportAntananarivoMain international airport
- NOSNosy Be International AirportNosy BeMain international airport
- TMMToamasina Ambalamanasy AirportToamasinaMain international airport
Trains
- Rail network
- 848 km
People and safety in Madagascar
Religion
Most people are Christian. Mostly one faith.
- Christian85%
- No religion7%
- Folk religions5%
- Muslim3%
LGBT+ travellers
Legal
- Same-sex marriage is not recognised.
- Some laws protect against discrimination.
Women travellers
Ranked #168 of 181 countries for women's safety, inclusion and justice.
38% of women say they feel safe walking alone at night where they live.
Who can visit without a visa
Travellers from 196 of 198 countries can visit Madagascar easily: no visa, a visa at the airport, or a short online form.
- Visa not required1
- Visa on arrival195
- Visa required1
- Admission refused1
Who can visit easily, by part of the world
For each part of the world: how many countries' travellers can come easily. Easy means no visa, a visa at the airport, or a short online form.
- Europe46 of 46 countries
- Americas35 of 35 countries
- Oceania14 of 14 countries
- Africa52 of 53 countries
- Asia49 of 50 countries
Questions
When is the dry season?
May to October is cooler and drier. Highland mornings can be chilly.
Which airport will I probably arrive at?
Most international flights arrive at Antananarivo or Nosy Be.
Why do road journeys take so long?
Most roads are in poor condition, and many become very muddy in the rainy season. Allow more time than you normally would.
Can I rely on cards and cash machines?
Cards are accepted by many businesses in Antananarivo and Nosy Be, but extra charges may apply. Cash machines can break down, so carry cash and an emergency reserve in US dollars or euros.
Will I manage with English?
Many hotels and parks have some English-speaking staff. French is more widely spoken in tourist areas, and Malagasy is spoken across the country.
Can I drink tap water?
No. Use bottled or treated water, and plan supplies carefully for rural trips.
Where can I eat cheaply?
Look for a hotely, which serves simple meals such as rice with chicken, beans or pork. Bananas and rice cakes are common street foods.
Do I need to bring a mosquito net?
More expensive accommodation usually provides one. Cheaper places may expect you to bring your own.
Which wildlife park is relatively easy to reach from the capital?
Andasibe-Mantadia is a few hours from Antananarivo by paved road. Some other parks need days of driving and walking.
Are there local customs I should ask about?
Yes. Ask about fady, the local taboos, when arriving somewhere new, and always get permission before photographing tombs.
Reviewed by @snuck